The Best 3-Day Itinerary for Edinburgh: 72 hours in Scotland’s Capital

Scotland's capital city is packed with history, culture, and unique sights. From exploring iconic landmarks like Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace to wandering the charming cobbled streets of the Royal Mile and hiking along the coast, this itinerary of mine will help you make the most of your time in the city.

Planning your trip: A 3-day Edinburgh itinerary

Day 1: Royal Mile and city center

• The Vennel Viewpoint and Greyfriars Bobby Statue
• National Museum of Scotland
• Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament
• Royal Mile
• Adam Smith statue and St. Giles’ Cathedral
• Edinburgh Castle
• Scott Monument
• Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

Day 2: Outer Edinburgh

• Royal Yacht Britannia
• Leith Walk
• Arthur’s Seat
• Edinburgh Zoo
• Edinburgh Gin Distillery

Day 3: St Abb’s Head, Rosslyn Chapel, and Craigmillar Castle: the wider area

• St Abb’s Head trail
• Rosslyn Chapel
• Craigmillar Castle

Good choice! Next Level of Travel has the best itineraries
 

If you’ve read my blog before, you’ll know that I rate Scotland as the best destination in Europe, way higher than France or Spain or anywhere else the avid sun-seekers flock to. And though some people either can’t stand the weather in Edinburgh or think it’s a downright dull place (or both), it charms me as a tourist more and more every time I visit.

Don’t believe me? I invite you to read on to discover the great things I experienced on my 3 days in Edinburgh. (Don’t worry, I go over the annoying things as well!)

 

 

Planning a trip to Edinburgh: FAQs

What’s the best way to get to Edinburgh?

Edinburgh Airport is the busiest airport in Scotland, welcoming lots of flights from all over Europe as well as from major hubs in the UK (i.e. the London airports). This means that if it isn’t possible for you to land in Edinburgh having endured a maximum of one layover, you must live somewhere pretty inaccessible. Like French Polynesia.

Oh, hello, Edinburgh!
 

Getting from the airport to the city center is easy enough. Choose between taking a taxi, a bus, or a tram. Any journey takes approximately 30 minutes.

Depending on where you’re traveling from, you may be able to get better deals on flights to Glasgow Airport, which is about 88 km (55 mi) west of Edinburgh. From there, trains and intercity buses go at regular intervals. Or hire a car, especially if you want to travel further afield in Scotland.

Where’s the best place to stay in Edinburgh?

We stayed at Tynecastle Park Hotel in the Gorgie area on the west side of the city. What’s cool about this hotel is that it’s actually part of the Heart of Midlothian soccer ground. This was a gimmick I couldn’t resist, especially at a reasonable price: GBP 185 (USD 241) per night.

And the place didn’t disappoint. Large rooms that are unusually luxurious for Scotland, a perfectly soft and comfortable bed allowing for the best night’s sleep, and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh (read: great breakfast). I'm not so much into soccer, but I’ve decided that I’m a Hearts fan now.

Side note: on the first morning at breakfast, my girlfriend set the toaster on fire. It wasn’t anything major—it didn’t spread and the staff were nice about it. But if you think I’d be the type of partner to embarrass her anyway by teasing her about it for the full 3 days in Edinburgh, and subsequently bringing it up in my blog post, you're absolutely right.

How many days should I spend in Edinburgh?

This is a 3-day itinerary, but is 3 days really enough time to spend in Edinburgh? Yes, for sure! Generally, you can hit all the best things to see and do in 72 hours, possibly with time to spare. At the same time, it’s not exactly a sprawling metropolis, so you might get bored after 4 days.

What are the best Edinburgh travel tips?

• Fun fact: Gaelic-language translations are everywhere on signs, even though just 1% of the population of Edinburgh has at least some understanding of Gaelic, and just 2.5% in the entire of Scotland. It looked like Elvish to me.
   
• Pack a hat or a jacket with a windproof hood. The wind in Edinburgh is fierce, even in summer.
   
• On a similar note, make sure you have waterproof clothes when visiting Edinburgh. Scotland is one of the rainiest parts of Europe and it only has two seasons: winter and June. I thought the waterproof stuff that I already had was good enough. Not for Scotland, as it turns out!
   
• Scottish people are incredibly kind. Don’t be alarmed—there's no ulterior motive.
   
• At the same time, a lot of people in Edinburgh clearly enjoy invading others’ personal space.
   
• Tipping is common in bars and restaurants—around 10% is enough.
   
• Another fun fact: People in other parts of Scotland joke that Edinburgh’s the most northerly city in England because lots of English people live here. As a foreigner, though, I didn’t really notice.

 

 

Day 1: Royal Mile and city center, including National Museum of Scotland and Edinburgh Castle

• Main sites visited: Greyfriars Bobby Statue, National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, Royal Mile, St. Giles’ Cathedral, Edinburgh Castle, Camera Obscura and World of Illusions
• Restaurant tip: The Piper’s Rest
• Further reading: 15 of the Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

See the route for day 1 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps
 

Your first of 3 days in Edinburgh will be jam-packed! There are a total of 11 places of interest on this section of the itinerary, including all the best things to check out on the Royal Mile and in the rest of the old town. All the distance you’ll cover on day one in Edinburgh is walkable, so leave the car at the hotel. Driving in the old town is a nightmare anyway!

Let’s start exploring Edinburgh!

Day 1, Stop 1: The Vennel Viewpoint and Greyfriars Bobby Statue

• Distance from hotel: 2.4 km (1.5 mi), a 35-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1 hour

When starting your first day in Edinburgh, forget the tourist buses. You’re here, first and foremost, for the history and heritage; not the Instagram pictures (though, let’s be honest, you will take a few at least).

Start at The Vennel Viewpoint like I did—a spot that’s more a local treasure than one of the "top 10 must-see attractions." It's an alleyway tucked away near the Grassmarket, offering one of the best, yet most underrated views of Edinburgh Castle.

As I climbed each of those worn stone steps, I felt like I was turning back the clock of time. The castle loomed overhead like it was about to start raining medieval battle cries. And the best part? No bumping into a hundred other tourists for the perfect shot, especially if you go at sunrise like we did. It’s your moment with the castle, one-on-one.

The Vennel Viewpoint
 

After we’d had enough of that unique view, we headed just around the corner to one of Edinburgh’s quirkiest and most beloved landmarks—the Greyfriars Bobby Statue. This tiny bronze dog has been melting hearts since the 19th century. Legend has it that after his owner passed away, Bobby the Skye Terrier spent 14 years faithfully guarding his grave, rain or shine, in Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetry. If this story doesn’t make you choke up even just a little, I’m sorry, but you’re dead inside.

But be warned: while many tourists rub the statue’s nose for "good luck," locals will roll their eyes harder than a teenager who just got grounded. It’s not really a thing, and honestly, you’re just polishing poor Bobby’s snout to a tacky gold. Instead, pay your respects, snap a photo if you must, and take a moment to appreciate the pup's loyalty.

Then, head into the cemetery itself for some serious Gothic vibes. You’ve officially begun your Edinburgh adventure like a local: steeped in history and just a little off the beaten path.

Greyfriars Bobby Statue

Day 1, Stop 2: National Museum of Scotland

• Distance from last stop: 87 m (285 ft), a one-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: 10 am–5 pm, every day
• Price: free
• Official website: https://www.nms.ac.uk/national-museum-of-scotland

Cool interior and a T-rex?! Nicely done, Scotland!
 

We spared no expense on the first morning of our 3 days in Edinburgh, as we then made a beeline for something else free to do. The National Museum of Scotland is just across the street and very conspicuous—the Bobby the dog is even looking in its direction. The building is large, modern and asymmetrical with a cylindrical corner. Oh, and there are banners outside that read ‘National Museum of Scotland’. I trust you won’t get lost.

The main part of the interior is an atrium. Looking at it, I thought it might have once been a prison, but apparently not. There are seven floors of fun facts to learn about Scotland; you can (and should) spend half a day here. This is a pretty immersive experience.

My favorite floor was probably the lowest (-1)—here is where you’ll learn all about the geological formation of Scotland, the scientific reason why the country is rich in coal and oil. I also particularly enjoyed learning about the Roman occupation of England and how this managed to influence Southern Scotland, as well as how Scotland’s became separated from England. There’s also a T-rex skeleton hanging from the ceiling, because as we all know, people will take a museum more seriously if it puts dinosaur bones on display.

Day 1, Stop 3: Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament

• Distance from last stop: 1.3 km (0.8 mi), a 17-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours (Holyrood Palace): 9:30 am–6 pm, every day (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Opening hours (Scottish Parliament): 10 am–5 pm, Monday, Friday and Saturday (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Price (Holyrood Palace): GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14)
• Price (Scottish Parliament): free
• Official website (Holyrood Palace): https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse
• Official website (Scottish Parliament): https://www.parliament.scot/visit/

Holyrood Palace
 

We then headed to Holyrood Palace, the official royal residence in Scotland. It’s one of Scotland’s most culturally significant buildings, located at the top of the Royal Mile at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh’s iconic extinct volcano.

Entry to Holyrood Palace costs GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14), which I hope doesn’t go to the King himself, and you’re given an audio guide. It turns out you really need this because there are no signs in the palace.

I was quite astounded by The King’s Gallery; so many paintings, furniture, and decorative items—the kind that nobody really needs. Mary, Queen of Scots also makes a lot of appearances. And there’s a “throne room”. I thought this must refer to His Majesty’s private bathroom, but no—it’s just a bunch of old chairs.

Out back, there’s Holyrood Abbey, or the ruins of, seeing as it doesn’t function anymore. I found it impressively well-preserved, imposing, even haunting. I bet it’d be a great place to go ghost-hunting late at night.

Conveniently, the Scottish Parliament is just next door to the palace. We only had a quick peek—we might as well, since we were there. But it’s not technically a "parliament", now, is it? (Commiserations to any Scottish independence supporters, but yeah, you’re still Westminster’s bitch.)

The building itself? Pure modernist eye candy, designed by Catalonian architect Enric Miralles. With its many haphazard shapes, quirky curves and sharp angles, the experience is much like a magic mushroom-induced trip to IKEA.

We spent our short visit wandering through the visitor areas, listening to a debate, and pretending we understood the finer points of devolution. I felt I earned a gold badge that says “You tried” on it.

Tip: the public gallery is free, so you can witness democracy in action without spending a penny. This was turning out to be a cost-effective day!

Day 1, Stop 4: Royal Mile

• Distance from last stop: 28 m (92 ft), a one-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours

Take a walk along the Royal Mile
 

Going back into town, we had to stroll down the Royal Mile—the most famous street in Edinburgh, stretching from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle. Now, brace yourself for this shocking fact: it’s not actually a mile long. It’s a "Scots mile", which, in true offbeat Scottish fashion, is about 1.1 miles. Classic Edinburgh—always keeping you on your toes. 

Anyway, tourism got this place good as it’s essentially full of restaurants, cafés, gift shops, and tour groups with selfie sticks. They’re definitely capitalizing on Pottermania here too, as you can pay to take a tour that begins on the Royal Mile to see the spots that inspired the settings in the Harry Potter books. While I’m not the type to don a Gryffindor scarf and go on a scavenger hunt for Diagon Alley, I do get why people are drawn to the witchy mystique of the architecture on the Royal Mile.

But let’s not kid ourselves—this isn’t just Harry Potter’s stomping ground; the Royal Mile has a history that’s even more dramatic. This street was the heart of medieval Edinburgh, once teeming with markets, public executions (yikes), and the odd royal procession. The tall, narrow buildings, or “tenements,” were the medieval version of skyscrapers, crammed with residents in every nook and cranny. (It seems not much has changed on this front, thanks to the thriving success of Airbnb).

And don't forget the weather—those gloomy clouds hanging over the street definitely add to the dour vibe. But then again, this applies to the entire city. In Edinburgh, the clouds are practically an architectural feature themselves.

Day 1, Stop 5: Adam Smith statue and St. Giles’ Cathedral

• Time spent here: 30 minutes
• Opening hours: 10:00 am–6 pm (Monday–Friday), 9 am–5 pm (Saturday), 1 pm–5 pm (Sunday)
• Price: free, donations welcome
• Official website: https://www.stgilescathedral.org.uk/

Adam Smith guarding the St. Giles’ Cathedral
 

The Royal Mile is also home to the statue of Adam Smith, the 18^th-century figure who wrote the book on capitalism (literally: The Wealth of Nations). Now, here he stands, overseeing the hustle and bustle of the street, covered in bird poop like the world’s most unfortunate economic adviser. Honestly, he’d probably have something to say about how tourism’s turned this place into a capitalist dream. But let’s be real—with a pigeon on his head, he looks just as silly as some of today’s politicians. Not exactly the look you want when you’re the face of the Scottish Enlightenment.

Right behind him is St. Giles’ Cathedral, an absolute beauty of a building that’s been around since the 12th century. It’s hard to believe that something this grand has stood here through wars, reformations, and probably more than a few royal blow-ups.

When I walked inside, I was immediately struck by how bright and colorful it is—none of that gloomy, Gothic darkness you see from the outside. The ceiling is a stunning deep blue, complete with gold embellishments that could easily pass for a royal crown, and turquoise tapestries hang from the columns like regal banners.

Then there’s the light filtering through the stained-glass windows, casting the place in a turquoise glow that makes it feel magical. But unfortunately, the serenity was ruined somewhat by the crowds. It’s hard to feel spiritually uplifted when you’re dodging so many tourists.

Tip: if you’re feeling generous (or guilty), you can donate to the cathedral by card. It’s 2024, after all—no excuses for being cheap in a place this awe-inspiring!

Day 1, Stop 6: Edinburgh Castle

• Distance from last stop: 321 m (0.2 mi), a six-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: 9:30 am–6 pm, every day (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Price: GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14)
• Official website: https://www.edinburghcastle.scot/

Edinburgh Castle
 

Edinburgh Castle is sort of the pièce de résistance of the Scottish capital, so I was eager to put it down for the first day of my 3-day itinerary. Unsurprisingly, the line to get in was huge and tickets soon sold out (I guess they have a limit on the number of people they can admit at once). A ticket cost GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14) and you have to pay extra for an audio guide.

Tip: go as early as you can. They start closing the castle at 5 pm; we got there at 3 pm and we were some of the last people to be let inside.

The complex is very large—it’s basically a collection of smaller museums. I have to say, the whole thing isn’t well-organized at all. There’s no map, which would surely be essential for someone who’s never set foot in the place before. (I mean, my sense of direction is good, but my intuition has its limitations.) But somehow, through trial and error, we made our way through the exhibits and the chaos lessened the further through the castle we went.

Most of what’s showcased is dedicated to Scotland’s military history and comes with gripping, complex stories: tales from the Battle of Waterloo, the Crimean War and both World Wars, to name a few. I’m going to be straight with you: Edinburgh Castle isn’t for pacifists. This place cuts no corners when it comes to glorifying battle, and if you can’t deal with that, leave it out of your itinerary. I, of course, had to visit Edinburgh Castle.

Luckily, I’m no such snowflake. The highlights for me were a wall of letters and other memoirs from soldiers, the section on the Royal Dragoons—a 300-year-old regiment, and the memorial chapel. It was all very poignant—I even got a bit emotional.

As proud as the Scots are of their military, past and present, it seems they’re equally proud of their bagpipes as you’ll also see these everywhere. I have mixed opinions on bagpipes. On one hand, they’re a really impressive instrument and whenever I hear them, I immediately think “Ah, great, I’m in Scotland—my favorite country!” However, after around one minute, admittedly, I start to get pissed off by the screeching. Thankfully, all the bagpipes at Edinburgh Castle are safely out of reach of any potential passing piper.

Take your time exploring Edinburgh Castle
 

And of course, such a rich, extensive display of military history couldn’t not be complemented by a dignified mention of the royal family. Edinburgh Castle is where the Scottish Crown Jewels—scepter, sword, and crown—are kept, and I was stunned by how beautiful they are in real life. I was also drawn in by a timeline of monarchs. Because I’m orderly, organized, not to mention mildly obsessive, I can’t resist a timeline, and it did make it easier for all the royal history I’d learned over the past few days to slot into place.

On the way out, there’s a fantastic audiovisual presentation on the siege of the castle in the 13th century that you shouldn’t miss. Remember to donate what you can—again, no one likes a cheapskate. And lastly, everyone loves a good view, and it must be said that the views from Edinburgh Castle are gorgeous. So even if you don’t like learning about war or royalty, take a walk up there anyway.

Day 1, Stop 7: Scott Monument in Princes Street Gardens

• Distance from last stop: 643 m (0.4 mi), a 10-minute walk
• Time spent here: 30 minutes
• Opening hours: 10 am–12:30 pm; 1:45 pm–4:30 pm, every day
• Price: GBP 8 (USD 10.56)

Scott Monument
 

From one ascent to another, Scott Monument is a towering Victorian Gothic homage to the Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott. You can climb all 287 steps to the top of it as part of a tour, passing several viewing platforms on different levels along the way. This sort of architecture isn’t everyone’s jam, but I thought it was a beautiful monument and you get some of the best views over the city from the top. It’s in Princes Street Gardens, after all, which is right in the middle of the action in Edinburgh.

But we didn’t stick around for too long; dusk was slowly coming, and we had something special lined up to end the day...

Day 1, Stop 8: Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

• Distance from last stop: 643 m (0.4 mi), a 10-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: 9 am–8 pm (Monday–Thursday), 9 am–9 pm (Friday and Sunday), 9 am–10 pm (Saturday)
• Price: GBP 22.50 (USD 29.30)
• Official website: https://www.camera-obscura.co.uk/

The electric feather (right) amazed me the most!
 

Camera Obscura and World of Illusions is the oldest tourist attraction in Edinburgh. It has a lot of charm, and it's a bit steep to get in—a ticket costs GBP 22.50 (USD 29.30). It was absolutely worth it, though. It is located on the prominent Castle Hill section of the Royal Mile.

It’s like many other museums of illusions, though it’s likely this one is the first as it houses the original camera obscura—a 150-year-old piece of equipment that displayed the first ever moving picture. It’s also worth noting that as far as exhibitions go, this one is very child-friendly. The exhibits span six floors of illusions; the clichéd mirror mazes being on the fourth floor, and the third floor being noticeably, let’s say, retro. By comparison, the fifth floor has a modern technological theme, and it was definitely my favorite. A special mention goes to the electric feather—I was truly mesmerized!

The 360-degree rooftop view over Edinburgh was a major plus, making up for the entry fee. The immediate location is absolutely stunning—the compelling uniqueness of this city is that it looks like it’s caught between medieval times and the Renaissance period. Up here, you get great views of the castle, the Royal Mile, and even of bits of neighboring Fife on the other side of the Firth of Forth.

Another major plus: although, as we know, Lothian weather is notoriously crappy, we got lucky on this evening with some clear(ish) skies.

The 360-degree rooftop views of Camera Obscura
 

I spotted The Balmoral hotel by Waverley station, with its clock tower that runs 3 minutes fast to help people not to miss their trains. I took some amazing photos of the castle and St. Margaret’s Chapel, where they’ll marry you for free if your name is Margaret. But anyway, enough quirky Edinburgh trivia for now; it’s been a long day and it’s time to head back to the soccer ground for a good night’s sleep. (That’s a sentence you don’t read every day!)

 

 

Day 2: Outer Edinburgh, including Royal Yacht Britannia and Arthur’s Seat

• Main sites visited: Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith Walk, Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh Zoo
• Restaurant tips: Dine Murrayfield
• Further reading: 15 of the Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

See the first part of the route for day 2 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps

See the second part of the route for day 2 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps
 

Day two is the time to get in the car and discover what the outskirts of Edinburgh have to offer (spoiler: a lot)!

You’ll begin by driving to Leith in the northeast of the city to see what turned out to be my personal highlight of the entire 3 days in Edinburgh! Then, you’ll take a walk that culminates atop Edinburgh’s greatest geological feature, before driving over to the west side to see some wild animals... and dodge some children. Finally, we visited the worst distillery in Edinburgh, so you don’t have to. You’re welcome.

Day 2, Stop 1: Royal Yacht Britannia

• Distance from hotel: 9 km (5.6 mi), a 25-minute drive
• Time spent here: 2.5 hours
• Opening hours: 10 am–4 pm, every day
• Price: GBP 19.50 (USD 25.45)
• Official website: https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

Me playing royal captain
 

Britannia was the yacht that served the British royal family between 1954 and 1997, traveling a whopping half a million miles during that time. It’s now permanently on show to the public just north of Edinburgh. Really, “yacht” doesn’t cut it; when you think of a yacht, you surely don’t think of a boat as massive as this one. We walked around it for at least 2 hours and covered 3 kilometers (nearly 2 miles)!

We had trouble finding a place to park the car and ended up in the parking lot at Ocean Terminal, the nearby shopping complex. Entry costs GBP 19.50 (USD 25.45) and you get given an audio guide (for free—take note, Edinburgh Castle). You can listen to the guide at your own pace in lots of languages. They even had my native Czech! I was half-expecting to hear Czech in a Scottish accent, which actually, would have been too funny for me not to have been distracted.

I’ll be honest: this tour was amazing—for me, the best thing to do in Edinburgh. It gave me a much better insight into the royal family than anything else I’d experienced, namely, just how expensive it must be to have them. It made me appreciate living in a republic more.

One of the Royal rooms on the yacht
 

These are the coolest things I learned and saw on the Royal Not-a-Yacht Britannia...

• The admiral had to change into 12 different outfits every day. He was just as bad as my girlfriend!
   
• They had a Rolls-Royce onboard for their annual trips to the Western Isles. What a bad choice of car for rugged terrain.
   
• The rooms on the ship are relatively modest. Is this where most Scottish hotels get their inspiration from?!
   
• I loved seeing some of their old family photos. Queen Elizabeth had more kids than I thought, and Princess Anne was quite the looker back in the day.
   
• I liked the dining room a lot—I’d love to host a formal dinner of my own there. What really impressed my obsessive mind was the precise placement of the crockery, the spaces between everything having been measured with a millimeter ruler.
   
• The crew’s quarters were very simple—the sailors slept in cramped bunk beds below deck. Seeing this did not better my opinions on the monarchy.
   
• There’s a whisky distillery next to the boat. It’d be rude not to...

Day 2, Stop 2: Leith Walk

• Distance from last stop: 1.6 km (1 mi), a 25-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours

Leith Walk
 

We were pretty royal’d-out and we’d each had a small dram of whisky by this point, so it was time to trade posh for pedestrian and head down Leith Walk, Edinburgh’s most eclectic street. It’s the closest thing the city has to any kind of “cultural melting pot”—just with more whisky.

Leith Walk connects the old port of Leith with the heart of Edinburgh, and walking down it is like taking a time machine that’s got its settings jammed on "random". One minute, you’re passing Victorian tenements; the next, you’re dodging hipster cafés that serve vegan haggis (is there any need, am I right?) and craft beer. I was positively mind-boggled by the sheer variety on offer: Turkish barbers, Italian delis, Polish supermarkets. Feeling snacky, I just opted for a good ol’ Scotch pie.

As you leave Leith Walk and start to get closer to Arthur’s Seat, the vibe shifts. The noise and bustle of Leith fade away, and suddenly I was staring at a craggy, ancient hill that looks like it was plopped down here straight from a Tolkien novel. I just had to climb it!

Day 2, Stop 3: Arthur’s Seat

• Distance from last stop: 1.9 km (1.2 mi), a 40-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours

Arthur’s Seat
 

As I mentioned earlier, Arthur’s Seat is technically an extinct volcano, which feels very on-brand for Scotland. Dramatic, a bit brooding, and full of surprises—kind of like the Edinburgh locals. Leaving behind the grit of Leith Walk and arriving in the sprawling green of Holyrood Park, you’ll see joggers, dog walkers, and a few brave souls attempting the hike in wildly inappropriate footwear. Don’t be fooled by the leisurely start to the trail; it ends up being pretty steep, so bring hiking shoes.

Reaching the top is like standing on the roof of Edinburgh. The 360-degree views are unreal—Edinburgh Castle looks like a tiny toy fortress from up here, and the Royal Mile winds its way through the city like the ribbon of history it is. It’s one of those moments that makes all the huffing and puffing worth it. And let’s be honest, after climbing an old volcano, I surely earned myself the right to skip leg day for the rest of the week.

Tip: when you come down, retrace your steps, but don’t feel the need to walk all the way back to where you parked the car, at the Royal Yacht Britannia. (I mean, do if you like, but you’ll probably be tired.) There are several bus connections that’ll get you there.

Day 2, Stop 4: Edinburgh Zoo

• Distance from last stop: 10 km (6.2 mi), a 30-minute drive
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: 10 am–4 pm (December–February), 10 am–5 pm (March and October), 10 am–6 pm (April–September), every day
• Price: GBP 24 (USD 31.66)
• Official website: https://www.edinburghzoo.org.uk/

At Edinburgh Zoo, they have pandas!
 

To the west of the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh Zoo. This spot might not top your must-see list in an area filled with medieval charm and natural beauty, but it’s a solid half-day option if, either: you’re into wildlife, or you desperately need to entertain your children. The zoo isn’t massive, so don’t expect a safari or anything, but I thought it was well laid out. It’s also run by a wildlife conservation charity, meaning the animals are well looked after. I must say, knowing this made me feel a bit more virtuous about visiting.

Everyone loses their minds over the pandas and the koalas. I don’t get the hype, but sure, they’re cute and chilled out. The giraffes, though—now they have it made. Their enclosure gives them a panoramic view of Edinburgh like they’re VIP guests at a rooftop bar.

There’s even a dinosaur exhibit. “How original,” I thought, having seen a bunch of T-rex bones at the National Museum of Scotland just the previous day. It’s great for kids, as I say, as are all the playgrounds. I don’t have a ton of patience for overly-kiddy places; this one’s already full of wild animals, what more do they want?! Oh, and they sell pizza and burgers. Kids like those, right?

Tip: it’s much easier to book your tickets online in advance—you can save money and even potentially skip the lines. Thank me later that you’re not stuck outside with a hangry kid and no pizza in sight.

Day 2, Stop 5: (DON’T go to the) Edinburgh Gin Distillery

If I'm anything, I'm very honest. And this experience really wasn’t good...
 

I really like gin, and I’d enjoyed whisky distillery tours in Scotland before, so I had high expectations of this last stop of the day. I shouldn’t have; the Edinburgh Gin Distillery is extremely small, so small that I’ll wager my grandpa single-handedly produces more homemade slivovitz than these people do.

The whole tour—including the explanation of the gin-making process—took about five minutes. This is something that you have to book in advance, by the way, which is pretty brazen of them. As it happens, the staff were rude and pretentious—the guide that we had was unbearable.

One thing we did learn was that gin was originally a drink for the poor, and it was first mixed with tonic water for the quinine, which helps to fight dangerous viruses. But I think I knew this already; overall, the whole experience was lame. Avoid.

 

 

Day 3: St Abb’s Head, Rosslyn Chapel, and Craigmillar Castle: the wider area

• Main sites visited: St Abb’s Head, Rosslyn Chapel, Craigmillar Castle
• Restaurant tips: Ebbcarr’s Café
• Further reading: Scotland’s UNBELIEVABLE Driving Routes

Most of day three of your Edinburgh itinerary won’t actually take place in Edinburgh, but in the nearby scenic council areas of the Scottish Borders and Midlothian. I see a day trip in your future!

We desperately wanted a break from the city to catch a long, picturesque walk along the coast, devour a seafood lunch, stop to see a hidden chapel, and make our own fun at one more castle. No regrets whatsoever—it was the best end to our trip!

 

 

See the route for day 3 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps  

Day 3, Stop 1: St Abb’s Head trail

• Distance from hotel: 88.2 km (54.8 mi), a one-hour-and-25-minute drive
• Time spent here: 3.5 hours
• Price: free (GBP 5 (USD 6.5) for parking)
• Official website: https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/st-abbs-head

Stunning!
 

St Abbs is a small fishing village around 75 km (47 mi) from Edinburgh and just 14 km (9 mi) from England, and it’s worth a visit for its truly epic views. You reach it by taking a super scenic route off the A1 highway.

Fun fact: St Abbs is where some of the scenes from The Avengers: Endgame were filmed!

Since we’re seasoned walkers, we decided to take a hike along the coast here. It’s a well-trodden path that you can begin either at the nearby St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve, or at the harbor in the village itself. We went for the former.

Map of the St Abb’s Head trail (see more details on Alltrails)
 

I thought the place was incredibly photogenic. Every viewpoint offers amazing rocks, and there’s a fascinating contrast here between the farmland and the cliffs. If someone showed me a picture of these surroundings and cropped out the sea, I’d never guess it was by the coast. The wind is crazy, especially at Pettico Wick, the trailhead, so I was extremely grateful at this stage for my windproof hood. And although I loved this for a bit of an adrenaline rush, for those afraid of heights, beware: the cliffs are steeper in reality than in the photos you see online!

On our way to St Abb’s Head
 

It’s definitely worth following the yellow trail at first before switching to the purple one to catch sight of St Abb's Head Lighthouse. The whole hike takes about two hours; time incredibly well spent, in my opinion. As is common in Scotland, it’s free to walk the trail, but parking costs GBP 5 (USD 6.5) for the day, which is fair enough.

We’d deserved a good lunch at the end of our walk, so we found Ebbcarrs Café in St. Abbs itself. It’s a no-frills seafood spot that serves up the freshest catch straight from the North Sea. This was definitely the kind of ambience I could fall in love with: a bowl of Cullen skink (traditional haddock soup) on a bench outside, breathing in the sea air.

Don’t expect fancy plating or pretentious service, but do expect crispy fish and chips, fresh crab sandwiches, and the odd seagull eyeing your meal. It was just what we needed: the perfect pit-stop where the seafood’s as honest as the people serving it.

Day 3, Stop 2: Rosslyn Chapel

• Distance from last stop: 78.3 km (48.7 mi), a one-hour-and-10-minute drive
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours
• Opening hours: 9 am–5 pm (Monday–Saturday), 12 pm–5 pm (Sunday)
• Price: GBP 10.50 (USD 13.85)
• Official website: https://www.rosslynchapel.com/

Me by Rosslyn Chapel
 

Heading back toward Edinburgh from the south, you’ll find Rosslyn Chapel, the village of Rosslyn being its namesake. The chapel is privately owned by the Earl of Rosslyn. You’ll be pleased to hear that this modest member of the British upper class lets people park at his crib free of charge.

You can get a tour of the complex, but you can choose between a guided or self-guided tour. In fact, the chapel is so packed with educational meat and interactive contraptions, you might decide you don’t need a guide. To give you a teaser, this place is closely connected with 13^th-century nobleman William St. Clair and the Scottish Wars of Independence. The story of Robert the Bruce’s heart being carried to Jerusalem began here, though the man carrying it died along the way.

Why should you stick Rosslyn Chapel on your 3-day Edinburgh itinerary? I mean, online sources make it sound a bit lame, but I found the way they tell stories here to be engaging and interesting. It’s also an architecturally fascinating building. There are these intriguing statues and carvings inside, all of which are described and explained wonderfully, leaving you curious no longer. For example, something that I found strange was the depiction of corn stalks, as the chapel was built before America was even discovered.

For me, Rosslyn Chapel was fantastic!
 

It’s kind of fun to count how many of these symbols you can spot. More that stood out to me were the Green Men, the Dance of Death, and Lucifer, the Fallen Angel. And to top it off, nearby, you’ll find the ruins of Rosslyn Castle inconspicuously nestled within a large green space—good for playing hide and seek if you’ve got children (or indeed, if you’re a big kid, like I am!).

The whole thing was just much better than I expected. Scotland just excels at making everything interesting.

Day 3, Stop 3: Craigmillar Castle

• Distance from last stop: 9.5 km (5.9 mi), a 25-minute drive
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours
• Opening hours: 9:30 am–5:30 pm, every day
• Price: GBP 7.50 (USD 9.80)

Craigmillar Castle
 

On our way back to the city, we made a final stop at Craigmillar Castle (I know, you can’t move for castles in this part of the world). Technically, it is within the urban limits, but you wouldn’t know it given that it’s surrounded by lush, green fields and plenty of trees. The trees extend to the courtyard entrance, making it look grand and esthetically-pleasing. To be honest, the whole castle is bigger and mightier than it looks in photos online. I’ll also say that it’s an impressively well-preserved castle.

After we—being the juveniles we are—had finished playing on some of the structures, we crossed the threshold. It was GBP 7.50 (USD 9.80) to enter. As we’d just experienced at Rosslyn Chapel, the historical accounts were clear and detailed, but without any unnecessary fluff. They should give their copywriter a raise!

Fun fact: Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here for a while. Another fun fact: within the east range of the castle, there was a prison right next to a bakehouse. As if those poor bastards weren’t tortured enough.

We had a really good time exploring Craigmillar Castle

 

 

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