A 3-Week Thailand Itinerary for True Travelers: Beyond the Tourist Traps!

Planning a 3-week trip to Thailand is easy—hit the main temples, beaches, and maybe toss in a tuk-tuk ride or two. But for true travelers—those looking to dive deeper into the country's local life, beyond the tourist traps—this 3-week Thailand itinerary takes you further. Deeper. Better!

From northern Thailand’s serene mountain villages to the less crowded islands in the south, it’s designed to give you a real(ish) taste of Thailand. Whether you're a fearless first-timer or a seasoned adventurer, this itinerary blends iconic sights with hidden gems that show a slightly less tourist-ridden side of the country.

We’ll start with the cultural heart of Chiang Mai and its temples, venture to the breathtaking landscapes of Chiang Dao and Mae Salong, and explore northern Thailand’s hills and tea plantations. From there, we’ll dip into Bangkok’s bustling energy before heading to the tranquil beaches of Koh Lanta and Railay. All in one epic, easy-to-follow travel itinerary!

Learn more about Thailand here

It’s not just about checking off bucket list spots when visiting Thailand—it’s about experiencing the quieter moments of Thai life, while getting as much unique experiences under your belt as possible. Whether it’s walking barefoot up the Sticky Waterfalls or watching the sunrise from Phu Chi Fa, you’ll leave with a deeper connection to the country. This trip is packed with adventure, but balanced with enough relaxation that you can soak in every bit of Thailand’s charm.

I am a true lover of Thailand, nice to meet you
 

Here’s how to spend 21 unforgettable days in Thailand—for true travelers.

 

3-week Thailand itinerary breakdown (by day):

• Day 1-3: Explore Chiang Mai (sleep in Chiang Mai)
• Day 4: Sticky Waterfalls and Chiang Dao (sleep in Chiang Dao)
• Day 5: Elephant Nature Park (drive to and sleep in Mae Kampong)
• Day 6: Mae Kampong, sky temple Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, drive to Chiang Rai (sleep in Chiang Rai)
• Day 7: White Temple in Chiang Rai and drive to Mae Salong, tea plantation (sleep in Mae Salong)
• Day 8: Mae Fah Luang Garden and Golden Triangle (sleep near Phu Chi Fa)
• Day 9: Phu Chi Fa sunrise hike, drive to Chiang Rai, flight to Bangkok (sleep in Bangkok)
• Day 10–12: Explore Bangkok (sleep in Bangkok)
• Day 13: Ayutthaya day trip (sleep in Bangkok)
• Day 14: Travel day Bangkok to Koh Lanta (sleep on Koh Lanta)
• Day 15–17: Koh Lanta with optional Koh Rok day trip (sleep on Koh Lanta)
• Day 18-20: Railay (sleep in Railay)
• Day 21: Return to Krabi, fly back to Bangkok for departure (one last night in Bangkok)

 

 

Map of Thailand itinerary: How to plan a trip to Thailand

Map showing the trip plan of this 3 week Thailand itinerary, including the airports you’ll be using

 

Day 1: Chiang Mai—Temples, history, and some trendy vibes

Get ready for lots of majestic temples in Chiang Mai!
 

Stops on day 1 in Thailand (Chiang Mai):

• Three Kings Monument: 5 minutes (free)
• Chiang Mai Art & Cultural Center: 1.5 hours (Price: THB 90/USD 2.50)
• Wat Phan Tao: 10 minutes (free)
• Wat Chedi Luang: 1 hour (Price: THB 50/USD 1.40)
• Wat Phra Singh: 30 minutes (Price: THB 20/USD 0.50)
• Wat Suan Dok: 45 minutes (free)
• Nimman: As long as you like
• Accommodation in Chiang Mai: CouCou Hotel | G Nimman | Tha Phae Villa

Welcome to Chiang Mai! It’s Day 1 of your 3-week Thailand itinerary, and whether you flew straight in or took the night train from Bangkok like I did, you’re likely already feeling the “Wait, I’m really in Thailand!” vibes.

We’ll kick off the adventure by exploring Chiang Mai’s Old Town and its temples, followed by some cultural gems and a more laid-back evening.

All of these stops have been described in detail in my 5-day Chiang Mai itinerary article.

 

 

Morning: Chiang Mai’s Old Town

The Three Kings that founded Chiang Mai
 

First stop, Three Kings Monument, because hey, why not pay your respects to the legendary kings who founded Chiang Mai back in the day? It’s a quick photo-op—just snap a picture and carry on. Not much more to say, but the next stop is right there.

Right behind the monument is the Chiang Mai Art & Cultural Center, where you’ll get the full historical lowdown on Chiang Mai, from its Lanna Kingdom days up to now. We got there so early that the place was barely awake yet—jet lag is a real thing. In fact, we kind of stumbled around the courtyard and snuck into an art room before anyone seemed to notice us.

The exhibitions weren’t even open yet, but by the time they were, we managed to slip in (accidentally without paying—oops). This museum is super informative, with plenty of artifacts, traditional costumes, and multimedia displays, and it’s all set in a beautifully restored colonial building.

We got into Chiang Mai Art & Cultural Center for free (by accident) + you have to take time for coffee in the lovely courtyard
 

Coffee tip: Have fantastic coffee in the coffee shop in the courtyard—they only do drip coffee and are super-knowledgeable and speak good English, so I was in caffeine heaven. I wasn’t brave enough to try Thai coffee though, instead sticking to my favorite African beans.

Wat Phan Tao—the gorgeous teak temple

After getting a taste of Chiang Mai’s history, you’ll want to hit your first temple in Chiang Mai, Wat Phan Tao. This one used to have a magical vibe that’s since been ruined by a parking lot. A parking lot! In place of a magical lake with an island with a Budhha statue in the middle with fairy lights making it look unbelievable… now a parking lot. Major bummer for me.

Wat Phan Tao temple
 

Still, Wat Phan Tao one of the few remaining all-teak structures in the city, and it’s right next to its more famous neighbor, Wat Chedi Luang, so it’s worth a visit. Pop in, enjoy the serene interior, and toss a coin in each of the 108 bowls for good luck. You’ll need it for the rest of your temple marathon!

Wat Chedi Luang—the best temple in Chiang Mai!

Right next door is Wat Chedi Luang, and this one’s a must. Even though an earthquake knocked off the top third of the massive chedi way back in the day, it’s still impressive as heck.

Fun fact: the chedi used to house the famous Emerald Buddha (the same one in Bangkok’s Grand Palace), but they moved it after the earthquake—smart move. Don’t miss the monk chat area on your way out. I loved sitting down with a monk to ask them about Buddhism and life in Thailand. They speak English (some better than others), and yes, women can join in too!

Some of the most sacred parts of Wat Chedi Luang
 

Loving these temples? Read more about them:

 

 

Afternoon: More temples and a trendy evening

Wat Phra Sing—a royal Chiang Mai temple

After you’ve soaked in the serenity (and probably a fair bit of sweat), head to Wat Phra Singh, about a 10-minute walk away from Wat Chedi Luang. The gold and grandeur makes it incomparable to what you’ve seen so far, so don’t even think about skipping it.

Pro tip: check out the wax monks—they look eerily real, like they’re just waiting for the temple to empty out so they can stretch their legs! I kid you now, you can never be sure whether the monk meditating over there is the real thing or not.

You see? They look so real...
 

Now, depending on the time and the weather, you might want to freshen up at your hotel just about now. When I was there in March, the heat was no joke—by 8:30 am, it was already pushing 37°C (99°F), so you might need a break before continuing.

Wat Suan Dok—the best random find

Once you’ve cooled down, hop in a Grab and head to Wat Suan Dok just outside the Old Town. This temple is home to a sea of white chedis that hold the ashes of Chiang Mai’s royal family. It’s stunning at sunset, but even in the afternoon, it’s a peaceful place to wander. You’ll see monks going about their daily routine, which adds to the vibe, and the white chedis glowing in the late afternoon light are just perfect—it’s the scene I remember the most from this spot, and it’s a dear memory from a place I just randomly chose to see.

Wat Suan Dok

Evening in Nimman

Finally, wrap up your first day in Thailand in Nimman, the hipster heart of Chiang Mai. It’s all about boutique shops, galleries, and places to eat and drink here, but that’s never a bad thing, right? Start at One Nimman, where the whole European-village vibe is perfect for some window shopping, and get dinner at Ginger Farm Kitchen—a Michelin-approved spot that serves delicious Thai food.

For something more low-key, cross the street to Think Park for street food, bars, and a cool night market atmosphere. It’s the perfect way to end your first day in Chiang Mai.

Tomorrow, get ready to head up the mountains and explore Doi Suthep!

 

Where to stay in Chiang Mai? I vote Old Town

In Chiang Mai, Old Town is the best choice for first-time visitors, offering a traditional vibe with temples and quieter streets despite the tourist activity. Nimman is the trendy, modern area with lots of cafés, shops, and nightlife, popular with expats and creative types. For a balance, the area just outside Tha Phae Gate is convenient for exploring, offering more affordable stays and a slightly calmer atmosphere compared to the heart of Old Town.

• Old Town (CouCou Hotel): Best for temple exploring and a central location, yet with quieter streets.
   
• Nimman (G Nimman Hotel): Trendy, stylish area focused on modern cafes, shopping, and nightlife.
   
• Tha Phae Gate (Villa Tha Phae): Cute, cozy option near Old Town, with easy access to both Old Town and nearby attractions at slightly better rates.

 

 

Day 2: Exploring Chiang Mai—Temples, hikes, and artsy vibes

I love the contrasts of Thailand!

Stops on day 2 in Thailand (Chiang Mai):

• Wat Chiang Man: 30 minutes (free)
• Monk’s Trail: 45 minutes to Wat Pha Lat (free)
• Wat Pha Lat: 1 hour (free)
• Wat Phra That Doi Suthep: 1 hour (Price: THB 30/USD 0.80)
• Baan Kang Wat Artist Village & lunch: 2 hours (free except for workshops)
• Wat Umong (Tunnel Temple): 1 hour (
• Illuminated Wat Chedi Luang: 20 minutes (free in the evening)

Morning: Temples and a jungle hike on the Monk’s Trail

Rise and shine! You’ll want to get up early today because unless you’re visiting Chiang Mai in an unprecedentedly cold time, it’s best to tackle the hiking part of the day before the heat gets too unbearable. Today, we're diving into a mix of temples, nature trails, and Thai artistic flair. Ready to take you through an action-packed Day 2 in Chiang Mai!

Even though you’ll be hiking up a mountain, make sure to dress modestly. This trail can still be used by monks, and it leads to a temple, so you don’t want to be caught wearing a sports bra and short shorts.

Wat Chiang Man

The oldest Buddha statue in Thailand lives in Wat Chiang Man
 

Kick off the day with some temple-hopping, starting at Wat Chiang Man—Chiang Mai’s oldest temple and home to Buddha’s hair (allegedly). It’s a serene spot, especially at dawn, before the heat kicks in. The elephant chedi and ancient Buddha statues are a great appetizer for the temple feast we’re about to have.

Optional breakfast stop—because pancakes!
Afterward, treat yourself to Blue Diamond Breakfast, one of my all-time favorite breakfast spots in Chiang Mai. I’m obsessed with their pancakes—plate-sized, fluffy, and served with maple syrup. There are other options, but why stray from perfection? The lush garden setting just adds to the charm. They open at 7 am, but if you want pancakes for dinner, go for it—they’re open late too!

Monk’s Trail Hike: A scenic path to Wat Pha Lat

You'll be accompanied by musicians on the Monk Trail. It was great!
 

To start your Monk’s Trail adventure, you’ll need to grab a Grab or take a short 15-minute drive out of Chiang Mai to the trailhead, just past the Army Radio Station. A Grab from Old Town will cost around THB 150 and takes about 15 minutes. That’s followed by a short, sunny walk to the start of the Monk’s Trail, but then you’re off into the jungle.

• Hike length: 3 km (1.8 mi)
• Elevation gain: 160 m (520 ft)
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate (with some steeper sections)

The path is well-trodden now, clearly marked with colorful banners (no more relying on bits of orange monk robes like the old days—a shame really!). It’s a peaceful, moderate hike, about 45 minutes long, with occasional steeper sections but nothing too tough.

The real highlight? Reaching Wat Pha Lat, a serene jungle temple hidden in the hills. You’ll feel like you’ve stumbled upon a secret, with waterfalls, stone bridges, and tranquil surroundings that blend beautifully into nature. When I visited on my first Thailand trip after getting lost in the jungle for an hour, I felt like I’ve reached nirvana! The route to get there now is more straightforward, but it’s still a great spot to rest, explore, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.

Wat Pha Lat temple deep in the jungle (if you forget about the road)
 

I recommend packing a snack to enjoy by the stream—you’ll need it for what’s coming next. Just be sure to take your trash back with you, unlike the monkeys, who apparently never learned proper hiking etiquette.

Feeling energetic? Before reaching Wat Pha Lat, there’s a side trail marked with a sign for Wat Anagami—400 meters of mostly dirt stairs. It’s a tough climb, and the temple at the top is nothing special, so consider it an optional workout.

Late morning: The Big One—Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

There’s a road right behind Wat Pha Lat (yeah, its not that secret), which is where you’ll start your ascent towards Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. It’s Chiang Mai’s most famous temple, perched high on the mountain.

You could hike all the way up through the jungle, but given my experience with getting lost on trails in these parts, I strongly recommend flagging down a red truck or taxi instead. Then, you enter Wat Phra That… it’s a bit of a tourist trap, with crowds and vendors galore, but those 300 dragon-guarded steps are worth it.

I left my mark at Wat Phra That
 

The view from the top is stunning, and the golden chedi gleams like it’s trying to outshine the sun. Don’t miss the panoramic terrace view of Chiang Mai, but be prepared for a photo-bombing tourist or ten.

Afternoon: Artist village in Chiang Mai

Baan Kang Wat Artist Village

After you’ve had your fill of temples, head to Baan Kang Wat, a charming little artist village where local creatives sell their paintings, pottery, and other handmade goodies. It’s like Chiang Mai’s chill-out zone, with cute cafés and workshops. I even tried my hand at a mosaic project here—took me way longer than I expected, but hey, it’s all about the experience! My coffee rests on it on my desk as we speak!

Tip: Getting out of here might be tricky. We struggled to find a Grab or red truck. If you get stuck, you can walk to your next stop, but with patience, we eventually flagged down a truck.

Late afternoon: Tunnel Temple Wat Umong

The tunnels at Wat Umong Suan Buddha Dhamma are the clear hightlight of this temple
 

End your day at Wat Umong, the tunnel temple, located in a peaceful forest setting not far from the artist village. Built in the 13^th century, this temple is best known for its underground tunnels that lead to Buddha statues hidden in dimly lit alcoves.

Above ground, you’ll find a massive chedi and plenty of talking trees—literally, trees with Buddhist proverbs pinned to them. A bit eerie, since some of the trees know too much about you, but cool.

Evening: Dinner and Wat Chedi Luang illuminated

Wrap up your day with dinner at LINK Cuisine or Always Thaifood—both serve up delicious dishes in charming settings in Chiang Mai’s Old Town. Afterward, check out Wat Chedi Luang by night. It’s pure Buddhist magic, and while the temple’s closed, the grounds stay open late. A perfect way to end your day with a little extra contemplation.

Tomorrow: We’re heading out of town for a day of rice paddies and waterfalls. Stay tuned!

 

Day 3 in Chiang Mai: Cooking, temples, and the night market

The third day is marked by Thai cuisine
 

Today, you’ll get a taste of Northern Thailand—literally. After starting the day with a hands-on Thai cooking class, you'll explore some of Chiang Mai’s lesser-known but no less impressive temples before diving into the sensory overload of the famous night markets.

Stops on day 3 in Thailand (Chiang Mai):

• Thai food cooking class (half-day): 7 hours (including transport) (THB 1,200 for a half-day class at Thai Farm Cooking School)
• Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple): 20 minutes (Price: THB 50)
• Wat Buppharam: 20 minutes (free)
• Sunday Night Market (or alternatives): 1–2 hours (free entry)

Morning: Thai cooking class at Thai Farm Cooking School

We took a cooking class in Thai Farm Cooking School
 

I feel visiting northern Thailand without taking a cooking class should be a travel offence. It’s one of the most essential experiences in Chiang Mai! Today, you’ll head to a Thai cooking class on a farm just outside the city where you’ll learn how to make authentic Northern Thai dishes (with less chilli for us non-Thai folks).

I’ve used Thai Farm Cooking School twice now and can wholeheartedly recommend them! Your guide/cook will be fun and knowledgeable, the farm and cooking facilities are super nice, and if you’re a cooking novice, don’t worry, they keep it beginner-friendly. By the end, you’ll feel like a pro (or at least well-fed).

You’ll start with a visit to a local market where your guide introduces you to different ingredients used in Thai cooking and gives you tips on what to substitute them for when you get back home. Next, it’s off to the farm, where you’ll tour the gardens and learn about Thai herbs (including taste tests).

Then, it’s time to cook! You choose from several options for each of the five dishes, including Thai classics like Pad Thai and Green Curry. You'll get to eat everything you make, so make it well! I hope you're hungry—by the last dish, I was more stuffed than a spring roll!

I think we did good, didn’t we?
 

After a few hours of chopping, stirring, and eating (don’t forget mango sticky rice for dessert!), you’ll be dropped back at your hotel in the early afternoon. You'll need a bit of a food coma break before heading back out.

Afternoon: Explore Wat Sri Suphan and Wat Buppharam

After your cooking adventure and nap, head to Wat Sri Suphan, Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple. It’s a quick 10-minute ride outside of Old Town, and you’ll recognize it immediately—it's the shiny silver one!

Unfortunately, women aren’t allowed inside the main silver hall (rude!), but the intricate silverwork on the outside is worth the trip. Look closely, and you’ll spot not only Buddhist images but even some Marvel superheroes and other random pictures etched into the walls! It’s a trip trying to take it all in—the walls are completely covered in imagery of all sorts! I can only imagine what the inside looks like…

The very silver Silver Temple on your left and Wat Buppharam on the right
 

Next, stop by Wat Buppharam, a lesser-known temple near Warorot Market. It’s small but visually stunning, with a unique Burmese-style chedi and murals inside the dhamma hall that are worth the climb up narrow stairs. While not the most famous temple, it offers a quieter, more local vibe, and there’s usually a monk or two around to offer a friendly smile.

Evening: Dive into the Sunday Night Market (or alternatives)

In the evening, it’s time for Chiang Mai’s shopping mecca—the Sunday Night Market. Starting at 4 pm and running late into the night, this market is an explosion of food, crafts, and people. You’ll find it on Ratchadamnoen Road, stretching all the way from Tha Phae Gate to Wat Phra Singh, and spilling into the side streets. It’s massive! The roads close starting mid-afternoon, so don’t even try to take taxis in Chiang Mai’s Old Town center if it’s a Sunday—walking is the only way to travel.

This market is a must-see, even if it’s just for the people-watching alone. You’ll find everything from high-quality handicrafts to repetitive souvenirs. And the food? Endless! Don’t be shy about grazing through the food stalls—grab some mango sticky rice (again!), grilled skewers, or even a roti pancake. It gets very crowded, so arriving early helps you avoid the worst of the crush.

Night market in Chiang Mai
 

If it’s not Sunday, don’t worry. Here are some other night market options in Chiang Mai:

• Lanna Square Market: Open every night, it’s a smaller, more relaxed market with food stalls and a stage featuring local performances.
   
• Wua Lai Walking Street: Held on Saturday evenings, this market near the Silver Temple is known for silver jewelry and top-notch food stalls. It’s like a smaller version of the Sunday market but with more focus on silver.
   
• Chiang Mai Night Bazaar: Open every night, the Night Bazaar is a tourist favorite (not mine, but people seem to love it). It’s massive, offering endless stalls of everything you can imagine—and food.

By the end of Day 3, you’ll have a full stomach, new culinary skills, and plenty of local crafts to show off!

 

Day 4 in Chiang Mai: Sticky waterfalls and Chiang Dao

Adventure time! Some of us didn’t like walking in the murky waters at the base of the falls
 

Today’s all about getting outside of Chiang Mai for a nature-packed day trip, featuring a waterfall you can climb, a hidden temple in the jungle, and picturesque rice fields. Get ready for a fun, refreshing adventure, with a side of peace and quiet in Chiang Dao!

You could also count today as the beginning of your northern Thailand road trip that’ll last the next 5 days. It’s this part of your 3 weeks in Thailand that’ll be some of the most adventurous, whirlwind, and least expected of your entire trip!

Today marks the start of your little road trip through northern Thailand. This is the quickest route, by I encourage you to choose some of the smaller roads instead, especially up by the Burmese border!

Stops on day 4 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• Sticky Waterfalls (Bua Tong Waterfall): 1.5 hours + 1.5-hour drive to get there (free)
• Wat Tham Pha Plong: 1 hour + 1-hour drive from Sticky Waterfalls
• Chiang Dao Rice Fields: 1 hour or more (with coffee at Khampunna Resort & Nature Café)
• Accommodation in Chaing Dao: Khampunna Resort & Nature Café

Morning: Sticky waterfalls (Bua Tong Waterfall)

A little climbing session
 

Start your day with one of the coolest natural wonders in north Thailand—the Sticky Waterfalls, about 1.5 hours north of Chiang Mai. These limestone waterfalls are, as the name suggests, “sticky,” meaning you can walk right up them without slipping! Yes, I know, it sounds like a total tourist trap, and I admit it’s much smaller than you’d hope, but it’s totally worth going because it’s pure fun!

It's not magic, but science—something about the mineral deposits in the water gives you enough traction to scramble up like a gecko. I found it hard to believe that it’ll “work”, but it did! I didn’t fall once!

There are three levels to explore, and it’s as much fun for adults as it is for kids. You’ll want to go in shorts because your legs will get wet, and plan on walking barefoot to feel the full sticky effect. Otherwise, I wasn't drenched or anything, though I can imagine how wild it gets here is rainy season!

There’s a picnic area and a small and very busy restaurant at the top where you can dry off and grab a snack or lunch before heading to your next stop.

Late morning: Wat Tham Pha Plong

Wat Tham Pha Plong
 

Next, make your way about 1 hour further north to Wat Tham Pha Plong, a peaceful temple tucked into the jungle. Not too many people visit this place because it is far out from Chiang Mai and it takes effort to climb to the top. I’m not complaining about it, it just means you get less crowds.

To get there, you’ll need to climb 510 steps, but don’t worry—Buddhist proverbs line the trail, giving you a little mental pick-me-up along the way. Plus, you’ve already practiced walking up at the sticky waterfall, so you’ll have no trouble getting up there—there’s no water trying to flush you down this time! Easy!

At the top, you’ll find a cave temple with beautiful Buddha statues and, most importantly, incredible views of the Chiang Dao mountains. The serenity of this place is its main draw, offering you a break from the tourist crowds.

Afternoon: Chiang Dao rice fields

After your temple visit, take a short 10-minute drive to the Chiang Dao rice fields. I absolutely love it here, despite the burning season making it a little hard to see the mountains. We still got silhouettes though!

Here, you can wander through tranquil green fields, with the imposing Doi Chiang Dao mountain towering in the background. It’s the perfect spot for some quiet time, and I found just the perfect spot for it; all while drinking great coffee and eating cake. What more could a girl want?

This cafe in the middle of the rice fields was such an unexpected and unforgettable stop! (Great coffee and cakes, too!) I’m talking about  Khampunna resort & Nature café
 

Khampunna Resort & Nature Café, a cozy, eco-friendly café that serves up local dishes with international options too, right in the middle of the rice fields. No really, there were people working in the fields close by as we sat there with our carrot cake… I almost felt bad.

This isn’t a typical tourist stop, which means you’ll likely have the place mostly to yourself. And it may not sound like much, but trust me, when you get there, time will stand still. Sit back and enjoy the view—especially around golden hour when the light is softest.

Secret tip: You’ll also be staying the night in Chiang Dao, and Khampunna resort & Nature café also has 2 rooms right on the rice fields where it must feel like a dream to wake up. I didn’t stay there, but I cold see through those floor to ceiling windows that the experience would be divine.

Get a good night’s rest and get ready for hanging out with some huge puppies, errr, I mean elephants tomorrow!

 

Day 5 of Thailand Itinerary: Elephant Sanctuary & overnight in Mae Kampong village

You can expect a wonderful time with these big puppies
 

Today, you’re heading out for an unforgettable day with some of Thailand’s most beloved creatures—elephants! Seriously, these gentle giants are like big, wise puppies, and you’ll fall in love with them in no time.

Stops on day 5 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• Elephant Nature Park or Elephant Nature Park’s Highlands Project: 6 hours (Price: THB 6,000/USD 165 for a full-day experience)
• Mae Kampong village: 1.5-hour drive from Elephant Nature Park
• Accommodation in Mae Kampong: Choose from the homestays in the area

Morning: Visit the elephants

When it comes to elephant experiences in Thailand, picking the right sanctuary is key. Not all places that call themselves “sanctuaries” truly treat their elephants ethically, so it's important to do your research.

If you follow my suggestion, you’ll visit Elephant Nature Park’s Highlands Project, one of renowned Elephant Nature Park’s smaller, more intimate satellite programs. It’s an excellent choice if you want to avoid crowds and experience elephants in a truly peaceful, natural environment, while also getting very much up close and personal with the elephants in a serene jungle setting.

What to expect during a visit to a Thai elephant sanctuary

You’ll meet a small group of elephants, including one elderly lady who was the star of our visit. In the wild, older elephants will die when they lose their teeth and struggle to feed themselves, but here, we prepared soft food like peeled bananas and watermelon so she can enjoy her meals—and she was thriving!

We made medicine balls for the elephants to bribe them to become our friends
 

Next up is making medicine balls to help keep the elephants healthy. It’s messy but fun, and the elephants love them. You’ll also prepare your own lunch—we learned how to make traditional papaya salad (we still make it at home today!). The outdoor dining area has stunning views of the surrounding jungle, so it’s a beautiful spot to take a break.

After lunch, we embarked on a 3-hour jungle walk with the elephants. This is where the experience really shines. You’ll walk side by side with these gentle giants, watching them interact with the environment—stopping for a snack here, taking a break in the shade there. It’s a slow, peaceful pace, and you can really soak up the moment.

You’ll wrap up your day by watching the elephants take a mud bath. It’s a great time for them to cool off, and I was happy to sit back and enjoy their playful antics from a respectful distance (unlike another sanctuary in southern Thailand that had bikini-wearing tourists taking selfies in the mud with the elephants).

Walking the elephants

Afternoon: Drive to Mae Kampong village

After your day with the elephants, the adventure continues! You’ll drive back towards Chiang Mai, but instead of stopping there, you’ll continue east to Mae Kampong, a quiet, mountain village known for its serene atmosphere and lush surroundings. The trip will take about 1.5 hours.

You won’t be the only tourist in Mae Kampong, as you’ll notice by the many homestays available for you to stay the night in. There range from simple rooms to all-out luxury where you can bathe in a teak bathtub on your balcony, so choose depending on your preferences.

You can stroll through the village, take in the fresh mountain air, and enjoy a home-cooked Thai dinner at your homestay. Mae Kampong is as authentic as it gets—no rush, no stress, just pure relaxation.

The next day, you’ll continue your journey with a visit to the incredible Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, before heading to Chiang Rai for the night.

 

Day 6 in Northern Thailand: Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat and Chiang Rai

Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat temple
 

Today, you’ll be heading to one of the most breathtaking temples in Thailand before making your way to Chiang Rai. It’s a day filled with epic mountain views, some hiking, and a bit of road-tripping. And by ‘a bit’, I mean ‘a lot’. Just think of it as a way to see the real Thailand as you stare at local life from your car window.

Stops on day 6 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat: 4 hours (including a 1.5-hour drive from Mae Kampong) (Price: THB 400/USD 12)
• Drive to Chiang Rai: 3 hours
• Accommodation in Chiang Rai: Lavanda Hotel Chiang Rai

Morning: The magical sky temple of Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat

Today, you’re heading for Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, a temple perched high in the mountains. It's about a 1.5-hour drive that included carsickness faster than you can say “sky temple”, but so magical and totally worth it!

As you get closer, you'll see the temple’s famous white pagodas seemingly floating among the clouds, a sight that’s enough to make you pull over and snap a few pics. But keep going!

Unbelievable!
 

Once you arrive, grab your ticket (THB 400/USD 12) and jump in a local shuttle truck that will take you up the steep mountain road. The ride is an adventure itself, with jaw-dropping views and hairpin turns that will make you both nervous and excited. Hold on tight—this isn’t your typical temple visit! Just think of what’s above you, not below you.

At the top, it’s time for a short hike. There are plenty of stairs, but the trail is well-maintained, and you’ll know the reward will be worth it. The white pagodas sparkle in the sunlight and look like they’re suspended in the sky. It’s seriously jaw-dropping! You’re surrounded by panoramic views of mountains, valleys, and, if you’re lucky, the early morning fog creeping through the landscape.

Wat Chaloem is a peaceful, almost spiritual experience, even if you’re not religious. I’m not. But I wanted to sit and take it all in for hours—this is one of those serene moments that really lets you appreciate the magic of Thailand.

What to Bring for Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat:

• Comfortable shoes: Trust me, you’ll want them for the stairs. Flip flops suck.
   
• Water and snacks: Hydration is key, and the shops at the base are limited.
   
• A charged phone or camera: Photos here are a must, and the scenery will demand it.
   
• Light jacket: It can be a bit cooler up here, so something light for layering is always a good idea.

Afternoon: Drive to Chiang Rai and turn in for the night

When you’re ready to make the journey back down from Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, do all the getting up there in reverse this time and prepare for a 3-hour drive to Chiang Rai. There’s not much to see on the drive but regular Thai towns and overloaded vehicles on the road, but after your sky temple experience, you’ll still be buzzing, so take it as a good time to reflect.

Chiang Rai itself? Well, let’s just say you’re not here for the city. Can you tell I’m not a fan? I’d recommend keeping things simple. Grab some dinner, maybe do some laundry, and call it an early night. Make sure to stay at a hotel in the southern part of Chiang Rai so you’re close to the White Temple and aren’t facing morning traffic in the morning.

This is your chance to recharge before more adventures tomorrow. Hey, road trips are exhausting, but in the best way possible, am I right?

You’ll be finishing your first week in Thailand with one of the country’s most famous sights in the morning, so enjoy a restful evening in this otherwise ordinary provincial town. Hopefully, you’ll see way less old white men with very young Thai girls than I did when I was there.

 

Day 7 in northern Thailand: Chiang Rai’s White Temple and drive to Mae Salong

Today we're going to the White Temple... it may look innocently white, but then you get closer and see this

Stops on day 7 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) in Chiang Rai: 1–1.5 hours (Price: THB 100 for the main temple, THB 50 for the Grotto)
• Drive to Mae Salong: 2.5 hours
• Tea plantation visit: 1–2 hours (Price: Mostly free, but you'll want to buy some tea!)
• Mae Salong sunset viewpoint: 30 minutes (free)
• Accommodation in Mae Salong: AMA Mae Salong (not on booking.com, but I highly recommend it for the terrace, the views, and the breakfast!)

Get ready for a day of visual wonders! Start with the surreal White Temple in Chiang Rai before heading to the peaceful, tea-filled hills of Mae Salong. You’ll experience everything from artistic brilliance and stunning landscapes to a mix of Thai and Chinese cultures in a single day.

See, I told you road trips are the best!

Morning: White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), Chiang Rai

White Temple
 

Your first stop of the day is the iconic White Temple in Chiang Rai. From a distance, it’s all pristine purity—blindingly white and glittering in the sun, like a freshly iced wedding cake. Can you feel a “but” coming? You’re right!

But once you get closer, the temple’s strange, surreal details start to pop out. Skulls, hands clawing from the ground, skeletons—it's a mix of the beautiful and bizarre, and somehow, it works. I thought it wouldn’t be worth even stopping in Chiang Rai for, but I was wrong! It’s one of the most unique temples in Thailand, and while it might feel like an art installation more than a temple, it’s an absolute must-see.

Practical tips for the White Temple:

1. Follow the one-way system: There’s no lingering on the bridge for selfies—there’s even a voice to remind you to keep moving.
2. Modest dress: Despite the art-gallery vibes, it’s still a temple, so cover your knees and shoulders.
3. The Grotto: For an extra THB 50, you can visit the air-conditioned grotto. It’s not a must, but on a hot day, a cool break can feel like a blessing.
4. Souvenirs: You can buy charms to hang at the temple for good luck, but I confess I took mine home. Better luck elsewhere, right?

Secret tip for other Chiang Rai temples: As for the Black Temple and the Blue Temple in Chiang Rai, I say skip them entirely. I was left disappointed (and scratching my head) at both of them. The black one is interesting for the first 10 minutes, but then the animal skulls get really old, fast. The blue temple just felt like a very poor attempt at recreating the White Temple’s fame. It’s a regular, mundane, temple with a lot of blue used throughout. Big woop.

After you've soaked in the weirdness and beauty of the White Temple, grab a snack and hit the road to Mae Salong—your next stop on the adventure.

Midday: Drive to Mae Salong

Time for a little road trip to Mae Salong!
 

From Chiang Rai, it’s a scenic 2.5-hour drive to Mae Salong, a quiet town in the hills known for its tea plantations and Chinese heritage. The drive is a real treat, winding through misty mountains and tea terraces that stretch endlessly across the landscape. You’ll pass small hill tribe villages where life seems to slow down and you’ll feel like you’ve accidentally ended up in another country!

Pro tip: If road-tripping is your type of travel, I highly suggest doing the entire Mae Salong Loop. You’ll be doing part of the loop on this 3 week Thailand itinerary, but you could spend a week just trapsing along the Thai-Burmese borders. Sometimes, not knowing exactly where you’re going is the best plan!

Anyway, speaking of other countries, Mae Salong is like a little slice of China plopped right in the mountains of Thailand. The town is home to descendants of Yunnanese soldiers who fled here after the Chinese Civil War, so you’ll hear Chinese spoken everywhere.

But before you get too excited about dumplings and sweet-and-sour chicken, think again. The food here leans more Yunnanese—think pork belly stew, hearty noodles, and piles of fresh tea leaves. I admit I, the vegetarian, was a little lost in the selection.

Heads up: You will want to consider the hilly terrain when renting a car back in Chiang Mai. Our little 1.0-liter engine had a very hard time in some spots when driving on this part of the Thailand itinerary. Like, I thought I’d have to get out and push her up the hill in some spots!

Afternoon: Tea plantation visit and Mae Salong Sunset Viewpoint

Me trying and failing to visit a tea plantation (read “story time” below)—but yes, that is indeed tea growing in perfect rows on the hill behind me
 

When in Mae Salong, you can’t miss visiting a tea plantation. The hills are covered with perfectly neat rows of tea bushes, stretching out like a green patchwork quilt. You’ll get a tour of the fields, a rundown on tea production, and, of course, a tasting. Most tours are free, but the catch is you’ll want to pick up some tea at the shop. It’s world-famous for a reason!

Story time: On my recent trip to Mae Salong, I found a remote tea plantation on Google Maps that looked promising. After a bumpy drive and a hike into the unknown that had me questioning my life choices, I found tea bushes… and nothing else. No humans, no tea to be tasted, nothing. Just an extremely picturesque landscape with a stream and a water buffalo—you can’t make these things up!

Turns out the actual visitor center/shop was somewhere in town. Thanks, Google Maps! At least I got some great photos and a very local experience! It’s called Choke Chamroen Tea Plantation if you want to try to find their actual shop.

To wrap up your day in Mae Salong, I made my way up to the Mae Salong Sunset Viewpoint—you’ll want to drive as the only way to get there is on the road (about 3 km/1.8 mi from central Mae Salong). There’s just a little gazebo, but this spot offers sweeping views across the lush landscape, with Burma (Myanmar) sitting right on the horizon. The golden hour here is magical.

Burning season made things a little hazier than I would’ve liked, but the sunset was still magical!
 

There’s something about this place that invites silence and reflection. I could sit here for hours (or until the mosquitos annoy me enough) just taking it all in—the stillness, the vastness, the “I’m so lucky to be here!!” feelings that keep boiling up to the surface of this hypersensitive traveler. You can’t help but wonder how Burma over there is holding up, so close, yet so far.

 

Day 8: Mae Fah Luang Garden, the Golden Triangle, and onward to Phu Chi Fa

Today is going to be awesomely busy!

Stops on day 8 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• Mae Fah Luang Garden: 1 hour + 1-hour drive from Mae Salong (Price: THB 150/USD 4)
• Golden Triangle: 1 hour + 1.5-hour drive from last stop (Free; optional THB 50 for House of Opium Museum)
• Accommodation near Phu Chi Fa: no bookings available at most places, prices range from THB 1,000–3,000 (USD 30–85) per night, 2.5-hour drive from the last stop

Today, you’ll be driving through more of northern Thailand’s scenic landscapes, ending up with a quiet, remote mountainside stay in preparation for tomorrow’s epic sunrise.

Morning: Mae Fah Luang Garden

Beautiful Mae Fah Luang Garden
 

I found Mae Fah Luang Garden accidentally way back when I still scootered along the Thai-Burmese border without a car in the world. Even if you’re not the biggest flower fan (I can barely keep a cactus alive, so trust me on this), this is a nice little pitstop.

You’re driving along the winding roads, thinking about your next coffee break, and then BAM! It’s like a hidden oasis, with manicured terraces, ponds, and bright flower beds all blending seamlessly into the lush landscape. And a café.

This garden, built to honor the late Princess Mother, symbolizes the royal family’s efforts to improve the lives of hill tribes and move the local economy from opium to agriculture. It’s peaceful, never too crowded, and perfect for a stroll before tackling more winding roads ahead.

Spend an hour or so wandering and head back to your car.

Midday: The Golden Triangle—where Burma, Laos, and Thailand meet

Golden Triangle
 

Keep driving for 1.5 hours until you reach the Golden Triangle, which isn’t much in terms of scenery if you’re looking in the wrong direction. But standing there, looking across the river and seeing three countries at once? That’s cool. It’s one of those spots you visit just to say you did. You’ll see Thailand, Burma, and Laos, all converging at the Mekong River.

For obvious reasons, this place reminded me of Iguazu Falls, where you can see Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay all at once. Minus the opioid trade.

What else is Golden Triangle Thailand famous for?

The Golden Triangle isn’t just known for its cool "three countries in one view" thing—it’s also infamous for being a major hub of the opium trade. For decades, this area was ground zero for opium production, fueling drug cartels, conflict, and all kinds of shady dealings. Thailand, Burma, and Laos formed a drug smuggling hotspot that made the "Golden Triangle" a name associated with, well, not gold, but something much more illegal.

These days, the opium fields are mostly gone, but the region’s notorious past is still a big part of its identity. If you want to dive deeper, you can visit the House of Opium Museum, just near the viewpoint.

Honestly, the town itself is overrun with tourists, tourist buses, and souvenir stalls, so get your photos, maybe stop by the museum, and then hit the road before the place starts to kill your vibe. You're in the middle of some of the most fascinating regions of Thailand, no need to ruin your day with neon lights and overpriced and underwhelming Pad Thai.

Three countries in one view

Why was Burma renamed to Myanmar?

If you're wondering whether to call the neighboring country Burma or Myanmar, you're not alone—it’s a common question. The military government officially changed the name from Burma to Myanmar in 1989, a year after a brutal crackdown on pro-democracy protests. However, some countries, like the U.S. and U.K., still use Burma as a way to avoid legitimizing the military regime. Others, including the UN, recognize Myanmar as the official name.

Afternoon: Drive to Phu Chi Fa

Tomorrow we have a trip to the Thai mountains Phu Chi Fa
 

After the Golden Triangle, it’s back on the road, and now the real scenery starts. You’ll wind through rolling hills and misty mountains on your way to Phu Chi Fa, a remote peak near the Laos border known for its incredible sunrise views.

The drive is stunning but filled with twists and turns, so keep your motion-sickness pills handy if you need them. You’ll pass tiny villages where locals might still look at you with curiosity, not because they’re trying to sell you something, but because they don’t see tourists as often.

Once you arrive at your accommodation near Phu Chi Fa, take it easy. Tomorrow morning is all about the sunrise hike, so have a local dinner, enjoy the stars, and get some rest. The very early wake-up will be worth it, I promise!

 

Day 9: Phu Chi Fa sunrise hike and travel to Bangkok

You want to get there early in the morning. Why? Check the next picture!

Stops on day 9 in Thailand (northern Thailand road trip):

• Phu Chi Fa hike and viewpoint for sunrise: 1.5 hours
• Drive to Chiang Rai: 120 km (75 miles), about a 2-hour drive
• Flight from Chaing Rai to Bangkok: 1.5-hour flight, multiple flights daily
• Accommodation in Bangkok: Samsen Street Hotel

Early morning: Phu Chi Fa sunrise hike

Let’s be real—getting up before the crack of dawn doesn’t sound like a dream vacation plan, but this is an exception. Phu Chi Fa is the sunrise spot in northern Thailand, and the views make it worth every yawn and stumble in the dark.

You’ll want to give yourself enough time to drive to the base and then 30 minutes for the hike up. Plan well, time flies when you’re slow and sleepy!

How to visit Phu Chi Fa?

• Distance: 1.6 km (1 mi) loop
• Elevation gain: 120 m (400 ft)  
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate 
• Hiking time: 1 hour + time at the viewpoint 
• Trailhead: Start at this parking lot

Once you’ve dragged yourself out of bed and made your way to the parking lot, you'll see a few locals already awake and selling snacks. Grab an instant coffee or Coke for breakfast—nothing like a little sugar rush to get you up that hill!

Best TV show ever!
 

The hike up is only 0.7 km (0.4 mi), but it’s steep. The trail is easy enough to follow; it takes 20–30 minutes to the viewpoint—but you’ll be doing it in total darkness and there are some stairs, so make sure your phone flashlight is charged. It’s not Everest, but it’s enough of a climb that you'll feel like you earned the view once you hit the top.

If you’re lucky with the weather, once the sunlight cracks the night sky, you’ll be treated to the famous sea of clouds blanketing the valley below, with mountain peaks poking through. Is it just me or do viewpoints like this make you fall in love with traveling all over again? It’s the kind of silent, magical moment that makes you forget you woke up at 4 am.

Once (if) the clouds move out of the way, you’ll see Laos before you, with the mighty Mekong in the distance.

Pro tip: You can either head back down the way you came, or there’s an loop trail that gives you a bit more variety. Not that you’ll remember what the way up looked like.

One last look and let's get back down!
 

For those who want to keep exploring, there’s a 1 km (0.6 mi) path along the Laos border that you can check out if you want to extend the fun. Just don’t forget to check AllTrails.com or something similar for maps—no need to get lost out here.

I haven't done many sunrise visits to anything, because walking up remote mountains in the dark seems like something you shouldn't be doing, but the views were unlike none other and had me wanting to get up in the middle of the night every day after that. (Obviously, by the very next middle of the night, I aborted that idea.)

Late morning and afternoon: Drive Back to Chiang Rai & Fly to Bangkok

It's time to hop in the car and head back to Chiang Rai, because this is where the northern Thailand portion of your 3 week Thailand itinerary ends.

The first 25 km (15 miles) of the drive will have you wishing for a teleportation device as the road twists and turns through the mountains. But after that, it straightens out, and you’ll be cruising to Chiang Rai in no time.

Leave yourself plenty of time to get to the Chiang Rai airport—flights from Chiang Rai to Bangkok are frequent, but the last thing you want is to miss yours. If you get there early and have time to spare, remember: this is Thailand. And that means you’re never far from a temple or a café. Grab a last-minute iced coffee or one more Pad Thai, then off you go!

Your whirlwind northern Thailand adventure wraps up with this flight back to Bangkok, where the chaos of the big city awaits!

 

Where to stay in Bangkok: Old Town or near Airport Rail Link

I spent an embarrassingly long time choosing the best place to stay in Bangkok for our last visit, because I have this thing where I NEED to find the spot that makes the most sense logistically or else my brain would explode. The problem is, Bangkok is a big place! And the best places to see in Bangkok are not all in one spot.

I chose the Old Town
 

In the end, I decided that staying in the Old Town is the best option for any first time Bangkok itinerary, because it’s in the middle of the tourist action, and even though it’s not on the BTS SkyTrain, you can easily get around using the boat or taxis.

Samsen Street Hotel is a fun, hip 4-star hotel that I’d stay at again in a heartbeat. It even shows movies on the huge screen above the pool every evening and has balconies surrounding the courtyard with the pool that are made to sit on, facing towards the pool, with cool seating cushions inviting everyone to join the fun. Loved the cakes at breakfast!

 

An alternative is to stay near the Airport Rail Link—it’s an easy, cheap, and effective way to get to and from the airport. We chose the area around the end station, Phaya Thai, for our last night in Bangkok, so we would be ready to hop on the train to the airport the next day.

 

Day 10 of Thailand Itinerary: Jim Thompson House, Lumpini Park, and Shopping

Shopping time! For example at Siam Paragon

Stops on day 10 in Thailand (Bangkok):

• Jim Thompson House: 2 hours (Price: THB 200/USD 5)
• Bangkok Shopping Malls: 2-3 hours (Free entry, but shopping is on you!)
• Lumpini Park & Benjakitti Park: 3 hours (Free)
• JODD FAIRS Night Market: 2 hours (Free)
• Accommodation in Bangkok: Samsen Street Hotel

Today is your first full day in Bangkok, and after all that road-tripping in northern Thailand, you’ll want to take it a little easy before hitting the heavyweight tourist attractions tomorrow. So, head to the newer parts of town first:

Morning: Jim Thompson House and Shopping

Kick off the day with a visit to Jim Thompson House, a must-see if you want a taste of Bangkok’s cultural history.

This stunning teakwood home tells the mysterious tale of an American expat who revived the Thai silk industry before vanishing into thin air in 1967. The only way to see the house is via a guided tour, which takes you through the garden and the home, showcasing Thompson’s art collection, Southeast Asian ceramics, and traditional Thai architecture. For me, the most interesting part was seeing the fusion of Thai and western architecture.

I absolutely loved Jim Thompson House!
 

The tour lasts about an hour, and the wait time can be spent grabbing coffee at the garden cafe or wandering through the lush garden. Once inside, you’ll notice some quirks: for instance, traditional Thai houses don’t have staircases inside—but Jim Thompson wasn’t a traditionalist. The house is a fascinating blend of cultures, and our tour guide did a great job explaining things in just enough detail to not make it boring.

Afterward, you’ll be close to Bangkok’s mega-malls—because after a history lesson, it’s time to dive into modern Bangkok. Whether you love or hate malls, they’re a part of Bangkok as much as the Grand Palace! They're entertainment hubs with all types of shops, fun themes, and of course, air conditioning.

• Terminal 21 is quirky, with each floor themed after a different world city—perfect for Instagrammable moments.
   
• Siam Paragon is your go-to for luxury shopping, but even if you’re not splurging, its massive food court is worth a visit.
   
• CentralWorld is one of the largest malls in Southeast Asia, where people-watching and window-shopping go hand in hand.

Grab some lunch while you’re here, and get a break from the heat before heading back out for an afternoon of nature.

Afternoon: Lumpini Park, Benjakitti Skywalk, and Night Market

After your urban adventures, it’s time to retreat into Bangkok’s green heart: Lumpini Park. Just a short ride away from the malls, this park is home to plenty of shade, ponds, and the real stars of the show: monitor lizards! I went to Limpini just to find them, and they were just there, on the grass, right in front of me. Yes, they can be huge, but don’t worry—they’re harmless (mostly). Look for them swimming in the ponds or lazing in the sun near the northeast corner of the park.

They’re not dangerous to humans, but keep your distance, because they don’t actually like us (not dangerous means they won’t kill you, but a bit would not be fun!)
 

Next up is Benjakitti Park, and namely the Benjakitti Skywalk. This elevated walkway takes you over a series of wetlands, offering views of Bangkok’s high-rises towering over a surprisingly serene landscape. The wetlands below are rich with wildlife, and the contrast between nature and city life is amazing.

Finally, as evening falls, make your way to JODD FAIRS Night Market. This is a fantastic place to explore Bangkok’s street food scene. Whether you’re after classic Thai dishes like pad thai or spicy som tam (papaya salad), or something more adventurous, JODD FAIRS has got you covered. There’s live music, a bustling atmosphere, and endless food stalls, making it the perfect spot to wrap up your day in Bangkok.

Alternative: If you’re around on the weekend and up for a challenge, there’s Chatuchak Weekend Market—the behemoth of all markets. It has 15,000 stalls selling everything from clothes to pets (yes, pets), and it’s easy to get lost in its 27 sections. Chatuchak can be overwhelming, so I personally prefer JODD FAIRS, but if you’re into big markets, this is a must-see.

If you’re staying in Bangkok Old Town, your best bet is not Khao San Road! Yes, it’s exactly as bad as you think. It’s where tourist traps thrive and are the accepted norm. Cringe is the only word I can think of to describe it. I went back in 2024 to see if it had changed its game, but no, it was worse than ever—just a ton of foreigners hanging out with each other, getting too drunk, wearing elephant pants, and paying to take photos of fried bugs. No thank you!

 

Day 11 of Thailand Itinerary: Grand Palace and Famous Old Town Temples

Grand Palace

Stops on day 11 in Thailand (Bangkok):

• Grand Palace: 2.5 hours (Price: THB 500/USD 13.50 + THB 200/USD 5 for the audio guide)
• Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha): 1 hour (Price: THB 300/USD 8)
• Wat Arun: 1 hour (Price: THB 200/USD 5)
• Asiatique the Riverfront: 2 hours (Free)

Alright, today, you’ll get to explore Old Town Bangkok with all of its tourist attractions. I have described this exact trip plan in my Bangkok itinerary, so if you’re after more details and lots of my practical tips, head over to that article: 

 

                                                                            

Morning: Grand Palace and Wat Pho

Start your day early and head to the Grand Palace by 8:30 am to avoid the worst of the heat and crowds. The palace is Bangkok’s most iconic landmark, so expect some mayhem—think long lines, police presence, and scammers insisting it’s “closed for a Buddhist holiday.” Spoiler: It’s not.

Starting in January 2024, the tourist gate has been changed to Mani Noppharat gate. Once inside, grab the audio guide (THB 200) and hustle—you only have 1.5 hours before you have to return it again!

A much smaller Emerald Buddha than we expected...but cool anyway! And wearing fancy clothes, too
 

The palace grounds are vast and packed with history, and absolutely worth your time. The highlight is Wat Phra Kaew, home to the Emerald Buddha (actually, he’s made of green jasper). Despite his small size, this Buddha holds immense cultural significance in Thailand. The architecture, the vibrant golds, and the intricate details in every corner are mesmerizing, and you could easily spend 2.5 hours exploring.

My top tips for visiting the Grand Palace

• It rarely closes, so don’t believe scammers that try to tell you otherwise. Just walk to the ticket desk and see for yourself.
   
• If you forgot to wear pants that go all the way down to your ankles, you can buy nifty elephant pants from a number of sellers before the gate. Or, you can wait in another line inside to rent a sarong.
   
• The heat heats extra strong at the Grand Palace! If you have a Thai phone number, you can rent (for free) and umbrella, which I highly recommend, because there aren’t a lot of places to hide from the sun.

Visiting Wat Pho and Reclining Buddha

Get ready for a variety of golden statues of different sizes!
 

Next, walk about 15 minutes to Wat Pho, home to the Reclining Buddha—and it’s huge! At 46 m long (151 ft), it dominates the temple, and the Buddha’s massive feet are inlaid with intricate mother-of-pearl designs. Photos don’t do him justice because he barely fits in the room!

Tip: Stop by Hello Sit Down restaurant nearby for a quick, delicious lunch before heading inside.

It’s a one-way route inside the Reclining Buddha temple, where you’ll carry your shoes in a little plastic bag.

You can also buy a bowl of coins to drop in 108 bowls lining the temple’s walls for good luck. I tried it, but ended up without enough coins, so I hope the good karma still counts.

The rest of Wat Pho has plenty more to see and it is beautiful! I was expecting to see the Reclining Buddha and then head out and didn’t realize there’s so much more there to be seen. Rows and rows of Buddha statues in many different rooms and courtyards. This temple is also known for its Thai massage school, though I didn’t get one. I was too busy admiring the beautiful tilework and chedis dedicated to former kings.

The Reclining Buddha is impossible to photograph as a whole because there are a bunch of columns in from of him. This is my best shot, tiptoes included

Afternoon: Wat Arun and Asiatique

Hop on a quick THB 5 ferry across the river to reach Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most stunning temples, especially as the sun sets. I have to say I have a soft spot for Wat Arun, it’s so pretty it makes me tear up any time I’m there, especially as the sun sets. I get my slightly pathetic “I love Thailand so much!” sobs.

In December and January, which are peak tourist times in Thailand, the sun sets around 6 pm, which is perfect timing since Wat Arun closes at 6 pm. You’ll want to get there around 5 pm  to have enough time to wander around and take your pics. This probably explains the hilariously large number of tourists doing photo shoots in traditional Thai rental clothing when I last visited. It was funny to an extent, but then it just got annoying, because they were all acting like we walked into their personal photo studio, huffing and puffing when anyone tried walking around like a normal tourist.

Wat Arun
 

You used to be able to climb up Wat Arun’s steep steps, but now you can only go up to the first level. Still, the view from here is stunning, with the temple spire towering 70 m (230 ft) above you, decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain and seashells. You’ll be saturated with temple beauty after about an hour.

Spend the evening at Asiatique

By now, you’ve soaked in enough temple beauty for the day, so head to Asiatique the Riverfront via a Chao Phraya tourist boat (a 30-minute ride). It’s the perfect place to unwind after a full day of temple-hopping.

You’ll find shops, restaurants, and a lively atmosphere at Asiatique. For a more upscale dining experience, try Crystal Grill House, or hit the food stalls for some classic Thai street food. If you’re feeling adventurous, hop on the giant Ferris wheel for great views of the river and city lights.

When you’re ready to head back to your hotel, grab a taxi—boats stop running at 7 pm.

 

Day 12: The Canals, Unique Shopping, and Thai Boxing

We saw some fancy houses along the river too, but of course I took the most pics of rickety stilt houses and khlong dogs

Stops on day 12 in Thailand (Bangkok):

• Khlong Tour: 2 hours (Price: THB 1,500/USD 40)
• Anime Mall or Flower Market: 1 hour (Free)
• Wat Sa Ket (Golden Mount): 45 minutes (Price: THB 100/USD 2.70)
• Thai Boxing Match at Rajadamnern: 2-3 hours (Price: varies, around THB 1,500-2,500/USD 40-68)

Another day in Bangkok, another day that I’ve written about in great detail in my 4-day Bangkok itinerary!

 

 

Here are the basics of your 12^th day in Thailand:

Morning: Khlong Tour and Shopping at Anime Mall or Flower Market

Start the day by boating into the heart of Bangkok's old neighborhoods with a Khlong (canal) tour.

Walk over to Phra Arthit Pier, just 10 minutes away if you're staying at Samsen Street Hotel.

There, you can negotiate with the boatmen for a private ride through Bangkok’s quieter, less touristy Thonburi district. The price will likely start high (around THB 2,000), but with some casual haggling, you should be able to get it down to about THB 1,500 very easily.

The “bus boat” as I like to call it is an easy way to get around Bangkok, but it also doubles as a tour on the Chao Phraya River
 

As you float through the maze of canals, you’ll catch glimpses of wooden stilt houses, kids playing by the water, and even a postman delivering mail by boat. It feels like a different world, far from the buzzing chaos of central Bangkok. Depending on your tour, you may stop by a local temple or small markets, but I recommend skipping the touristy stops to fully enjoy the quiet atmosphere from the water.

Back on land, you’ve got two unique shopping experiences to choose from. If you’re into quirky pop culture and collectibles, head to Mega Plaza Saphan Lek, also known as the Anime Mall. It’s filled with tiny shops selling everything from anime figurines to airsoft guns and gadgets. Just watch out for the R-rated items mixed in with the family-friendly fare! I had to be on high-alert the whole time there with my son.

For a complete sensory shift, visit the ICP Flower Market instead. It’s packed with colorful flowers—great for photos—and gives you a real taste of Bangkok’s wholesale market life. I personally prefer the anime mall, but maybe you don’t love Totoro as much as I do and will do better with some flowers instead.

Afternoon: Wat Sa Ket and a Night of Thai Boxing

After a shopping detour, take a quick Grab ride over to Wat Sa Ket, also known as the Golden Mount. This temple offers some of the best panoramic views in the city, but you’ll have to climb 344 steps to get there!

Don’t worry, the way up is lined with bells to ring and some charming (if not slightly kitschy) decorations. At the top, enjoy the 360-degree views of Bangkok, with Old Town spread out below and the busy streets feeling a world away.

The golden chedi was under renovation when I visited in 2024, but the views alone were worth the trip. The temple’s interior is peaceful and cool, providing a nice break from the heat outside. Remember to bring a cover-up for the temple visit—Thai dress codes are still in play.

And of course, a Thai boxing match can’t be missing from any Thailand itinerary
 

Wrap up the day with one of Bangkok’s most exciting traditions—a Muay Thai boxing match at Rajadamnern Stadium. The matches start at 6 pm, so you’ll have plenty of time to grab a quick bite before heading to the fight. Tickets range from THB 1,500 to 2,500, depending on your seat choice. For the best experience, you may want to look for a smaller venue and sit in the cheaper, livelier seats further from the action. Trust me, being in the middle of the shouting, betting, and energy is much more fun than the sanitized tourist zone!

The action ramps up with each round, with the final bouts offering the highest chance of knockouts—I hate to admit it, but even I was waiting in anticipation for someone to fall the ground. Hey, it’s much more exciting than when they end up “hugging” for minutes on end.

It’s a long event, so feel free to skip the early rounds, but I recommend staying to the end for the full experience. There’s nothing quite like Muay Thai under the bright lights of Bangkok!

Secret tip: For a more local vibe, check out Channel 7’s free Muay Thai matches on Sunday afternoons. This tiny TV studio is packed with locals, and the energy is electric. Just remember to dress modestly (legs and shoulders covered) and get there early to grab a seat! It’ll be mostly locals, so you can sit anywhere and still be part of the vibe.

 

Day 13: Ayutthaya Day Trip from Bangkok

Helping these young ladies practice their English in Ayutthaya

Stops on day 13 in Thailand (Bangkok):

• Ayutthaya Historical Park day trip: 8 hours (Price: small fees at some of the temples, tuk tuks charge THB 1,000/USD 27 for the whole day)

Today, you’ll step back in time with one of the best day trips from Bangkok: Ayutthaya, one of Thailand’s ancient capitals and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1350, it thrived for centuries before being sacked by the Burmese in 1767. The impressive ruins tell the story of its once-glorious past.

Once again, I have all the juicy details of an Ayutthaya day trip in my Bangkok itinerary:

Tip: Ayutthaya can get scorching hot, so I highly recommend renting a bike or hiring a tuk-tuk for the day (around THB 1,000/USD 27 for the whole day). When I visited, I made the mistake of booking a half-day tour. You’ll want a full day to explore this vast area properly.

Day trip to Ayutthaya Historical Park

Ayutthaya Historical Park
 

The Ayutthaya Historical Park is centered around Bueng Phra Ram Park and is roughly bordered by the river that encircles the area. While many of the main temples are within or just outside this area, there are numerous other temples worth exploring beyond its boundaries. There is no entrance fee for the park, but some of the temples require a small fee to enter.

Must-visit sights within the historical park include:

• Wat Mahathat: Famous for the Buddha head entwined in tree roots.
   
• Wat Phra Si Sanphet: Once the royal temple, known for its iconic chedis.
   
• Wat Ratchaburana: Notable for its prang and detailed stucco work.
   
• Wat Chaiwatthanaram: A striking temple in a picturesque riverside setting.

If you venture further out, check out Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon with its giant reclining Buddha and towering chedi. A personal favorite of mine is Wat Phukhao Thong, a striking white chedi with steep stairs offering amazing views. It’s off the beaten path, so you might just have it all to yourself.

Pro tip: If a group of giggling schoolgirls approach you, they’re likely practicing their English and will ask you to fill out a questionnaire. Give them a few minutes—it’s a sweet interaction!

Getting to Ayutthaya

You’ve got a few options:

• Group tour: Prices are about THB 1,200 (USD 32) for a full day, and they’ll drive you directly there (about an hour from Bangkok).
   
• DIY: Trains from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal to Ayutthaya take 2 hours and cost THB 20 (USD 0.50).

I took a group tour, but thanks to unclear instructions from our driver, I almost got left behind. Picture me running around like a headless chicken trying to find the right minivan while getting scolded by the driver. Fun times!

Evening: Last night in Bangkok

Goodbye for now, Bangkok!
 

After your day exploring Ayutthaya, you’ll have one last night to enjoy Bangkok before and getting your beach time on. With 3 weeks in Thailand, you didn’t think we’d be skipping the islands, did you?!

Whether you want to keep it simple or go out in style, there are plenty of options:

Rooftop bars in Bangkok:

• Lebua at State Tower: Fancy a cocktail with panoramic views? Lebua is one of Bangkok’s most iconic rooftop bars. I even put on lipstick and a dress for this one time!
   
• Vertigo and Moon Bar at Banyan Tree or Octave Rooftop Lounge are also great options for a sky-high experience.

Trendy bars in Bangkok (ground-level):

• New Nana: Not to be confused with the adult entertainment Nana, this is a trendy street with intimate cocktail bars.
  • TEP Bar: Traditional Thai spirits and live music.
     
  • Teens of Thailand: A cozy little gin bar (despite the name).

Street dining in Bangkok:

For me, nothing beats the streetside eateries. I love grabbing a seat in a plastic chair, with toilet paper as napkins, and enjoying the bustling energy. The area around Samsen Street Hotel has plenty of these low-key spots. If fancy dining isn’t your thing, hit the streets for your final Bangkok feast!

Tomorrow, you have a travel day ahead of you, but it’ll all be worth it in the end when you’re drinking your cocktail with your toes in the sand in southern Thailand!

 

Day 14: Travel day! Bangkok to Krabi to Koh Lanta

Next up, a week in southern Thailand!

Stops on day 14 in Thailand (Bangkok to Koh Lanta):

• Fly from Bangkok to Krabi: 1.5 hours + time at airport
• Ferry from Krabi to Koh Lanta: 2 hours (Price: THB 350–400/USD 10–12)
• Van or Taxi from Krabi to Koh Lanta: 2–2.5 hours (Price: THB 400–500/USD 12–15 for a van, THB 2,500–3,000/USD 75–90 for a taxi)
• Dinner on Koh Lanta: View Point Restaurant on the way to Old Town | Mayuri’s Bar or Pinto in Old Town
• Accommodation on Koh Lanta: Long Beach Chalets | Gooddays Lanta Beach Resort (just the Superior beachfront bungalow!)

Disclaimer: I’m an Andaman Sea kind of girl, and here’s why: I like my islands with a touch of adventure, fewer full moon parties, and a little less “gap year backpacker finds enlightenment through questionable yoga.” The Gulf islands—Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Tao—are great. Just not for me. But me? I prefer rugged coastlines, hidden beaches, and sunsets without a hundred people posing for Instagram.

Don’t get me wrong—Koh Phangan’s Full Moon Party is great if you want to lose your shoes, dignity, and possibly your liver in one night. But on the Andaman side, you’ve got Koh Lanta and Railay, where you can kayak past limestone cliffs, watch the sun dip into the sea, and have an entire beach to yourself without a neon body paint casualty in sight. I mean, what’s not to love? (And if you secretly crave a little "half moon party", Koh Lanta's busier beaches will be enough to keep you happy, I promise.)

Morning: Fly from Bangkok to Krabi

Pack your bags, it’s island time! Your day starts with a short 1.5-hour flight from Bangkok to Krabi, the nearest airport to Koh Lanta. It’s a smooth and easy ride, and once you land, you’ll have two main ways to reach the island: ferry or minivan/taxi.

Afternoon: Ferry or Van to Koh Lanta

If you take the ferry, you can enjoy beautiful views on the way to Koh Lanta
 

After landing in Krabi, hop on a ferry from Krabi Town’s Klong Jilad Pier for a 2-hour ride to Koh Lanta, one of my favorite Thai islands. The ferry offers a relaxing trip across the Andaman Sea, with views and a bit of fresh air. Or, if the ferry times don’t line up with your schedule, opt for a minivan or taxi, which includes a short car ferry crossing.

I’d vote for a taxi, because I wouldn’t be caught dead in a shared minivan, and you’ll travel by ferry when you’re leaving Koh Lanta.

Upon arrival at Saladan Pier, prepare for the usual shuffle with tuk-tuk and taxi drivers. It’s part of the charm! Walk a bit further from the pier for better rates, or rent a scooter if you’re feeling adventurous.

You’re officially on island time now!

 

Where to stay on Koh Lanta?

I'm kind of hard to please—basically, I want a paradise beach where there aren’t too many other people if I don’t feel like it, and then have a suddenly livelier stretch where I can be social if my mood changes. Long Beach came close, but nothing's perfect, right?

The busiest beaches are near the north part of the island, closer to the main pier, and then get quieter as you continue south. Long Beach is pretty central and has the perfect mix of relaxation and activity and works well with your itinerary for the next few days.

Long Beach Chalets has sweet beachfront villas that were full when we visited, so I can only be jealous of you if you book this place. Gooddays Lanta Beach Resort is a budget-friendly option for beachfront bungalows—but trust me, only choose the Superior beachfront bungalow or the Deluxe bungalow with sea view! This was a great deal for on-the-sand accommodation and what felt like a private beach, but other bungalows were on the very dark and musty side—stay away. 

 

Day 15 (Koh Lanta): Mu Ko Lanta National Park, Beaches, and Old Town

For me, Koh Lanta was a tourist-free paradise but don't have unrealistic expectations! I'll tell you what it's really like

Stops on day 15 in Thailand (Koh Lanta):

• Mu Ko Lanta National Park: 1.5 hours (including the lighthouse viewpoint and beach)
• Bamboo Beach or Kantiang Bay: 1 hour beach time
• Koh Lanta Old Town: 2-3 hours
  • View Point Restaurant for lunch: 1 hour
  • Shopping and museum visit: 1.5-2 hours

For details about traveling to Koh Lanta, including getting from the pier and traveling around the island, best beaches and top attractions, head over to my Koh Lanta itinerary.

 

 

Morning: Mu Ko Lanta National Park and Beaches

First of all, I recommend the viewpoint at the lighthouse. You can ignore the lighthouse, but the views you'll see from this spot are definitely worth seeing!
 

Kick off the day in Koh Lanta with a scooter ride (or taxi if you’re feeling fancy) to Mu Ko Lanta National Park. It’s about an hour from Long Beach. You’ll want good brakes because there are some downhill stretches that’ll have you clenching those handlebars for dear life. Once you arrive and pay the THB 200 entrance fee, head straight to the viewpoint by the lighthouse. Ignore the lighthouse itself—it’s seen better days—but the view? Chef’s kiss, muaw! You’ve got cliffs, beaches, and a whole lotta sea to admire. South Thailand, eh?

After the short hike (watch out for loose rocks!), head down to the beach for some chill time. That may look like laying in the sand for some, but that’s not my style, so instead, I strolled, snapped pics on the beach swing, and dipped my toes in the water. Just a heads-up: there are monkeys hanging around, and yes, they will absolutely try to steal your stuff if you look away for 2 seconds. Learned that the hard way! They are small but intimidating!

If you’re up for more beach time, you’ve got two options nearby: Bamboo Beach or Kantiang Bay. Both are gorgeous, but Bamboo Beach is quieter and sometimes has cows wandering around (because why not?). Kantiang Bay has more restaurants and beach bars if you’re in the mood for a drink. Either way, one beach stop is enough unless you’re a hardcore beach fanatic.

Afternoon: Koh Lanta Old Town

After soaking up the sun, hop back on your scooter and ride to Koh Lanta Old Town. It’s about a 45-minute scenic ride, past local villages, adorable roadside “gas stations” (plastic bottles filled with gasoline, sold by people at their homes), and plenty of dogs and chickens just chilling on the road.

Before you get to town, make a pit stop at View Point Restaurant for lunch. The food’s decent, but it’s all about the views here. The restaurant’s name doesn’t lie!

Finally, head into Old Town and wander the main street. It’s touristy, but not in an obnoxious way. The old wooden houses standing on stilts over the water are now restaurants and shops, and, get this—the shop owners aren’t pushy! You can browse without feeling like you’re about to get roped into buying 10 sarongs you didn’t want. I mean they eye you, but not overwhelmingly.

Check out the Koh Lanta Community Museum for a quick dive into local history—think sea gypsies and the island’s cultural mix. It’s small but worth 20 minutes, and the staff appreciate donations. Afterward, walk down to the pier to see the lobster monument and spot some monitor lizards lurking around. Those things are huge, and if you’re not expecting them, you’re in for a shock like I was!

If you’re feeling adventurous, take a little detour beyond the main drag and explore the quiet side streets. Just be mindful of local life—no creeping on people’s private areas like you’re on a National Geographic special.

One last thing: don’t be like me and try to outsmart Google Maps by taking a “shortcut” back to your hotel. Unless you like driving on dusty, potholed roads to nowhere, stick to the main route. And please, avoid driving at night—these roads are sketchy enough in daylight (animals, potholes, etc.).

 

Day 16 (Koh Lanta): Puppies, Adventure, and Cooking!

Get ready for a day full of cuteness! The tour starts at Kitty City

Stops on day 16 in Thailand (Koh Lanta):

• Lanta Animal Welfare: 1.5 hours for a tour and hanging out with the cats
• Adventure option: Ziplining or kayaking: 1.5–3 hours
• Beach time (optional): 1–2 hours
• Time for Lime cooking class: 4 hours

Morning: Lanta Animal Welfare and Adventure

Walking the pups at Lanta Animal Welfare
 

Start your day with a short 10-minute scooter ride to Lanta Animal Welfare (LAW). This isn’t just a shelter—it’s a full-on mission to save Koh Lanta’s stray and injured animals. I know, a cat-and-dog sanctuary might not sound like a typical vacation stop, but this place will tug at your heartstrings, and your visit helps fund their efforts.

You start with a tour of Kitty City (yes, it’s as cute as it sounds) before meeting the dogs, learning their stories, and getting a peek behind the scenes. Their stories made me lose faith in humanity—until I met the people who work here, and the very hands-on owner, Junie Kowacs, who totally restored it.

Bonus: If you fall in love, LAW also arranges international adoptions… just saying!

After that heartwarming start, it’s time to inject some adventure into your day! If you’re feeling the adrenaline, head to Lanta Zipline—it’s an epic way to see the island from above. Guides will keep you laughing (and safe) as you zip through the jungle, with views that make the THB 1,800 totally worth it. Or, if heights aren’t your thing, consider kayaking in the mangroves. I’m not a huge fan of caves and mangroves myself, but it could be fun for you if you prefer exploring nature from the water.

Afternoon: Beach time (optional) and cooking class

I’ve found my favorite hangout spot at Moonshine Beach Cocktails bar. Loved it!
 

After your morning of cuteness and adventure, you’ll probably want to chill. No problem—you’re on an island, chilling is its basic draw! The obvious way to do so is hit the beach for a little relaxation. I recommend Klong Nin for a mix of lively and quiet spots, or Nui Beach if you’re after seclusion. Just don’t get too comfy—you’ve got a cooking class to attend!

In the evening, head over to Time for Lime for a Thai cooking class. It’s more than just a class—it’s a chance to give back since all proceeds go directly to Lanta Animal Welfare. You’ll cook by the pool, whip up 3–4 dishes, sip cocktails, and feel like a total superhero again (this time with a wok).

 

Day 17 (Koh Lanta): Koh Rok day trip or relaxing and doing nothing

Koh Rok—the kingdom of snorkeling!

Stops on day 17 in Thailand (Koh Lanta):

• Option 1: Relax on Koh Lanta: All day
• Option 2: Koh Rok snorkeling day trip: 7–8 hours
  • Hotel pickup: 8 am
  • Snorkeling at Koh Haa: 30 minutes
  • Koh Rok snorkeling & beach time: 3–4 hours
  • Lunch on Ao Man Sai Beach: 1 hour
  • Optional hike to Pha Samed Daeng viewpoint: 30 minutes
  • Return to Koh Lanta: 4–5 pm

All day: A choice—do nothing or do Koh Rok!

Option 1: The lazy day

If you’ve hit the point in your trip where doing absolutely nothing sounds glorious, embrace it! Sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast by the beach, and just let the day unfold however you want. Koh Lanta is built for these lazy days—lounging on the sand, strolling along Long Beach, or grabbing a coffee at a beach café. Maybe throw in a massage if you’re feeling fancy. No plans, no stress. Even I, Ms. I-can’t-stay-still-for-a-minute, can appreciate a rest day after a couple weeks in Thailand!

Option 2: Koh Rok snorkeling day trip

If you’re still got it in you, today is the perfect time to explore the stunning Koh Rok Islands—because let’s be honest, the sea life around Koh Lanta isn’t that great. Koh Rok is a snorkeling hotspot you don’t want to miss. Think crystal-clear waters, colorful coral reefs, and an explosion of marine life that’ll make you feel like you’re in Finding Nemo. If underwater worlds are your thing, this trip is non-negotiable.

Boat trip to Koh Haa—where the fishes smile at you!
 

You’ll get picked up from your hotel and hop on a speedboat (not my favorite mode of transport, but it’s only an hour). The first stop is Koh Haa, where you’ll snorkel in a gorgeous lagoon, then it’s off to the twin islands of Koh Rok. Expect shallow, vibrant corals and fish that look like they’re posing for photos. Lunch is included—nothing fancy, but it gets the job done—then you’ve got free time on Koh Rok Yai Beach to swim, sunbathe, or hike up to the Pha Samed Daeng viewpoint. You’ll finish off with one last snorkeling session before heading back to Koh Lanta. By the time you get back, you’ll be ready to use those beach loungers for their primary purpose and just stare at that epic Koh Lanta sunset for the very last time.

Either way, make the most of your last night before heading off to Railay tomorrow.

 

Day 18: Travel from Koh Lanta to Railay—Island Vibes and First Impressions

Fortunately, we didn't need those life vests

Stops on day 18 in Thailand (Koh Lanta to Railay):

• Ferry from Koh Lanta to Railay: 2 hours
• Railay West Beach: 2 hours including lunch
• Tonsai Beach: 1 hour
• Walk around town and dinner: 2+ hours
• Accommodation on Railay: Railay Bay Resort & Spa (whatever you do, get a place with a pool, just in case you have millions of jellyfish in the sea like we did!)

Morning: Ferry from Koh Lanta to Railay

Your Thailand itinerary continues (and approaches the end quickly!) as you leave Koh Lanta behind and hop on the ferry to Railay Beach. The ferry ride will take about 2 hours—expect a bit of "Thai time," where schedules are more of a suggestion than a guarantee. The ferry departs from Saladan Pier in Koh Lanta and makes a stop at Railay West, where you’ll disembark.

The ferry experience itself is pretty chill: we dumped our bags in a big pile with everyone else’s, grabbed a seat (preferably one where you can head outside for fresh air), and enjoyed the views. You’ll pass some pretty spectacular scenery—those classic limestone cliffs popping out of the sea that are so iconic in southern Thailand. Just don’t expect a luxury cruise; it’s functional and practical, which is all you really need to get from A to B here. There were life jackets on every seat, so I’m calling the ferry safe.

Once you arrive at Railay East, the ugliest beach on Railay that serves as the main pier, watch out for a bit of chaos as you grab your bags and make your way through the crowd—welcome to Railay! Head straight to your hotel and don’t let the garbage on the beach discourage you—it will get better once you move to the other side of the peninsula!

Railay

Is Railay worth visiting?

I first visited Railay on my very first trip to Thailand back in what seems like the Middle Ages, and let me tell you, it was paradise. Fast forward to my most recent trip in 2024, and I finally decided to splurge and actually stay on Railay and not just visit Railay Beach. Well… it was still beautiful, but not quite the glamorous, tidy paradise I had in mind.

I expected something more upscale—more of an upscale vibe, polished streets—but what I got was a bit messier (and smellier) than I’d imagined. Railay West, the main beach, is a bit of a zoo, with longtail boats zooming in and out all day, and Railay East, where you’ll first arrive from Koh Lanta, is downright ugly.

Sounds terrible, right? Actually, once you get over the initial shock of how not fancy it is, it’s really not that bad. In fact, I kind of embraced the unpolished vibe and ended up appreciating that it’s still not just some shiny tourist bubble.

Overall, Railay is still gorgeous, with its iconic cliffs jutting out from the sea and a sunset you absolutely can’t miss. The nature is still second to none. Embrace the chaos, set your expectations straight, and you’ll love it just the same.

Parked longtail boats at Railay Beach (Railay West)

Afternoon: Explore Railay West and Tonsai Beach

Once settled in, head out to explore Railay West, the main beach where longtail boats come and go all day long. You’ll be greeted by the non-stop road of their engines as they shuttle passengers back and forth to Ao Nang. No really, it never stops!

This beach has a fantastic view of towering cliffs and longtail boats dotting the water, and it’s especially magical at sunset. You’re also always not more than 3 steps away from the next restaurant, though almost none of them are directly on the beach. The main drag heads straight inland, so if you want to see the beach, you have to go be on the beach.

After lunch at one of the many spots on Railay’s only tourist street—try one of the seafood places with the fresh fish on display!—take a walk through the “secret” passage over the rocks at the northern end of Railay West to Tonsai Beach. Tonsai is like Railay’s more chill cousin: quieter, less touristy, and way emptier. I loved getting there and back the most, because when the tide rolls in, there’s almost no way back without getting your feet wet as you jump over the rocks in the final section!

End your day trying to get that perfect sunset Insta-shot, with the cliffs, the boats, and the orange-pink sky. I wasn’t too bothered by the fact that other tourists were photobombing me—authenticity, right? Then, grab dinner and enjoy a laid-back evening soaking in the “island” vibes.

 

Day 19: Railay adventure—sea kayaking and rock climbing

Today is going to be full of adventure in Railay

Stops on day 19 in Thailand (Railay):

• Kayak from Railay West to Phra Nang Beach and around: 2–3 hours
• Phra Nang Beach: 1 hour
• Rock climbing: 3–4 hours
• Evening relaxation (foot massage and dinner): 2 hours

Morning: Kayak from Railay West to Phra Nang Beach

Start your day actively by grabbing a sea kayak from Railay West. There’s a man on the beach close the entrance to the main street renting them either by the hour of for a half-/full-day.

The paddle to Phra Nang Beach is easy enough, and it’s much more fun than walking there. Gliding over the turquoise water, you’ll pass cliffs that rise straight out of the sea, maybe even catch a glimpse of some colorful fish below. It’s such a peaceful way to explore this part of the coast and I’d do it again in a heartbeat. As I left the tourist-filed beach behind, I literally sighed in relief. Let the peace begin!

Once you arrive at Phra Nang, park your kayak and take a break on the beach. Phra Nang’s clear waters and dramatic cliffs are a sight to behold. Don’t forget to swing by the Princess Cave, filled with—you guessed it—wooden phallic carvings left as fertility offerings. It’s just one of those “only in Thailand” moments. If you're lucky, the water will be jellyfish-free, and you can jump in for a swim. If not, this is your reminder to always book a hotel with a pool!

Then, head back out, there are plenty of rocks close enough to paddle to, one of these islands even has a tiny beach and sandbar that was jellyfish-free and full of tiny fish! We spent several hours exploring, even getting out at some of the rocks on the coast to explore caves—epic!

Alternative: If kayaking isn’t your thing, you can walk the 10-minute trail from Railay East to Phra Nang instead. It's a well-troden path where you’ll be passing some incredible cave rock formations, but keep an eye out for cheeky monkeys and monitor lizards. The trail also passes the East Railay Viewpoint, though I didn’t venture up this time. It’s steep and muddy—probably best to avoid if you’re wearing flip-flops (or if you have a kid!).

In addition to kayaking, you can climb rocks in Railay. There are plenty of them

Afternoon: Rock climbing

After some relaxing on Phra Nang Beach, get ready to swap those sea legs for some real adventure: rock climbing! Railay is famous for its cliffs, and there are climbing routes for all skill levels, whether you're a first-timer or a seasoned pro.

 Tons of shops in Railay offer half-day or full-day climbing packages, and they’ll set you up with everything you need—gear, guides, and safety equipment. Check reviews on Google Maps and you’re all set.

Even if you’re a newbie like I was during my first trip, you’ll love the adrenaline rush of scaling the rocks with the sea as your backdrop. So, no need to worry even if it's your first Thailand trip! It’s an amazing way to challenge yourself while soaking in the beauty of Railay’s famous limestone cliffs. Plus, the guides are super encouraging (and hilarious), so you’ll feel confident even if you’re dangling halfway up a rock, giving yourself a pep talk.

Evening: Relax and unwind

I like to keep going all day, but finding those little moments of peace sometimes hits the spot just right
 

After a day of adventure, you’ve earned some serious chill time. Treat yourself to a Thai foot massage (a mix of pain and bliss), read a book, or just grab a cold drink and watch the sunset over Railay West while the sky turns shades of pink and orange.

 

Day 20: Island hopping from Railay—The 4 Islands or Hong Island

The 4 Islands

Stops on day 20 in Thailand (Railay):

• 4 Islands or Hong Island boat tour: 4–6 hours
• Afternoon relaxation, final sunset, and dinner: 3–4 hours

Morning: 4 Islands Tour or Hong Island Trip

You can’t come to Railay and not do an island-hopping tour. It’s basically a rite of passage for any first-timer in Thailand. Go on a group tour or hire your own private boat.

The 4 Islands Tour is the classic—stops at Chicken Island, Tup Island, and Poda Island, with snorkeling and beach time at each. It’s pretty straightforward: beautiful beaches, crystal-clear water, and plenty of tourists getting sunburnt. The group tour includes lunch and enough of time to swim, snorkel, and explore. Sure, it can get crowded, but it’s still a lot of fun. Comes in half-day and full-day variants.

Hong Island (the left photo is from a stop they called “Little Maya Bay”)
 

If you’ve done the 4 islands and want to try something new, check out Hong Island. Honestly all of these tours are a similar setup, you go to several spots, get dropped off at the beach and told when to get back on the boat. Hong is nice, but not as nice as the photos lead me to believe.

Be careful with the tides at Hong; if you go at low tide, you’ll end up sitting around the main beach with tons of Chinese package tourists in life vests waiting for enough water to swim in. Been there, done that.

We opted for a private tour this time and it would’ve been fine had our boat driver not been trying to rip us off mid-trip. From Railay, it only makes sense to take a speed boat since Hong is quite a bit further out.

DO climb up to the viewpoint on Hong Island for breathtaking views of the surrounding islands. It’s a slog, especially in the heat, but you’ll feel like you’re on top of the world once you get there.

Alt text: Hong Island in Thailand, 3 week itinerary, photo by Next Level of Travel

Hong Island beach and views from the viewpoint (stunning, right?!)

Afternoon and last evening on Railay

Spend your last hours of the afternoon on one of Railay’s beaches, in your hotel pool, or getting yet another massage. Then, end the day with a final sunset at Railay West and some last-minute souvenir shopping. Railay may not live up to your perfect paradise dreams, but it’s an experience you won’t forget!

 

Day 21: Railay to Bangkok—A bittersweet goodbye

Back in Bangkok!

Stops on day 21 in Thailand (Railay to Bangkok):

1. Longtail boat from Railay to Krabi: 20 minutes
2. Flight Krabi to Bangkok: 1.5 hours + extra time at the airport
3. Night in Bangkok: K Maison Boutique Hotel (near Airport Rail Link)

It's your final day of your 3-week Thailand trip (sigh), and while the dream of missing your flight and staying forever may cross your mind, let’s not get too risky. Today, you’ll head from Railay back to Bangkok, and I highly recommend spending one last night in the city to cushion any potential logistical f*ck-ups. Stay near the Airport Rail Link train for easy access to Suvarnabhumi Airport for your flight home.

Trust me, with longtail boats, ferries, flights, and Bangkok traffic involved, it's not the time to tempt fate—unless you’re up for the thrill of sprinting through an airport!

Morning: Railay to Krabi

Start your day with your last breakfast with bonus smells of the sea (hopefully not anything worse) and take in the last glimpses of Railay’s limestone cliffs before hopping on a longtail boat back to the mainland. Boats leave regularly from Railay East to Krabi Pier, and it’s a pretty quick ride of about 20 minutes. Once you’re on the mainland, grab a taxi to Krabi Airport.

Afternoon: Fly to Bangkok

From Krabi Airport, catch a flight back to Bangkok. It’s a short flight, about 1.5 hours, but don’t underestimate the time it takes to get through security and baggage claim.

Evening: One last night in Bangkok

Goodbye, Bangkok! Goodbye, Thailand!
 

Once you’re back in Bangkok, enjoy your final evening in the city. Whether you want to grab a nice dinner, do some last-minute shopping, or just chill in your hotel room, having this extra night gives you peace of mind. You wouldn’t want to miss your flight home… or would you? I've yet to meet a person that doesn't think Thailand is an incredible country!

And that’s all, folks! Get more Thailand inspiration in our Thailand section.

 

 

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