Your 2-day Edinburgh Travel Itinerary: What to Do in 48 Hours?

Edinburgh, Scotland's compact capital, is brimming with history, culture, and unique sights. From exploring iconic landmarks like Holyrood Palace and Arthur’s Seat to wandering the damp cobbled streets of the Royal Mile and spotting exotic wildlife at Edinburgh Zoo, this 2-day itinerary of mine will help you make the most of your time in the city.

Planning a trip to Edinburgh: your 2-day itinerary

Day 1: Royal Mile and city center

• The Vennel Viewpoint and Greyfriars Bobby Statue
• National Museum of Scotland
• Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament
• Royal Mile
• Adam Smith statue and St. Giles’ Cathedral
• Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

Day 2: Edinburgh Castle and outer Edinburgh

• Edinburgh Castle
• Scott Monument
• Royal Yacht Britannia
• Leith Walk
• Arthur’s Seat
• Edinburgh Zoo

BONUS: St Abb’s Head, the best day trip from Edinburgh for outdoorsy types

Fancy some outdoor adventure? St Abb’s Head is perfect for that
 

If you’ve read this blog before, you’ll know that I rate Scotland as the best destination in Europe, way higher than France or Spain or anywhere else warmer, where it seems everyone wants to go. And though some people either can’t bear the weather in Edinburgh or just think it’s a boring place (or both), for me personally, it gets more charming every time I visit.

Still not convinced? Read my straightforward, no-frills account of my 2-day trip to Edinburgh to find out about the great things I experienced!

 

Planning a trip to Edinburgh: FAQs

First off, here are the answers to some of the most common questions people have before spending 2 days in Edinburgh...

Is 2 days enough time in Edinburgh?

Yes, two days is enough time to spend in Edinburgh, providing you don’t dawdle too much. You should be able to hit all the best things to see and do in 48 hours with a rigid, detailed 2-day Edinburgh itinerary like this one.

What’s the best way to get to Edinburgh?

Edinburgh Airport is the busiest airport in Scotland, welcoming lots of flights from all over Europe as well as from major hubs in the UK (i.e. the London airports). This means that if it isn’t possible for you to land in Edinburgh having endured a maximum of one layover, you must live somewhere pretty inaccessible. Like French Polynesia.

Pretty accessible and pretty amazing!

Where’s the best place to stay in Edinburgh?

We stayed at Tynecastle Park Hotel in the Gorgie area on the west side of the city. What’s cool about this hotel is that it’s actually part of the Heart of Midlothian soccer ground. This was a gimmick I couldn’t resist, especially at a reasonable price: GBP 185 (USD 241) per night.

And the place didn’t disappoint. Large rooms that are unusually luxurious for Scotland, a perfectly soft and comfortable bed allowing for the best night’s sleep, and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh (read: great breakfast). I'm not so much into soccer, but I’ve decided that I’m a Hearts fan now.

Side note: on the first morning at breakfast, my girlfriend set the toaster on fire. It wasn’t anything major—it didn’t spread and the staff were nice about it. But if you think I’d be the type of partner to embarrass her anyway by teasing her about it for the rest of the trip, and subsequently bringing it up in my blog post, you're absolutely right.

What are the best Edinburgh travel tips?

• Pack a hat or a jacket with a windproof hood. The wind in Edinburgh is fierce, even in summer.
   
• On a similar note, make sure you have waterproof clothes. Scotland is one of the rainiest parts of Europe and it only has two seasons: winter and June. I thought the waterproof stuff that I already had was good enough. Not for Scotland, as it turns out!
   
• Tipping is common in bars and restaurants—around 10% is enough.
   
• Fun fact: Gaelic-language translations are everywhere on signs, even though just 1% of the population of Edinburgh has at least some understanding of Gaelic, and just 2.5% in the entire of Scotland. It looked like Elvish to me.
   
• Another fun fact: people in other parts of Scotland joke that Edinburgh’s the most northerly city in England because lots of English people live here. As a foreigner, though, I didn’t really notice.
   
• Scottish people are incredibly kind. Don’t be alarmed—there's no ulterior motive.
   
• At the same time, a lot of people in Edinburgh clearly enjoy invading others’ personal space.
   
• Scottish people tend to have breakfast late, at around 8 am, and dinner early, at around 6 pm. I found this a little irritating because I like to be out early and back late.

Windproof and waterproof clothing is a must all over Scotland

 

Day 1: Royal Mile and the city center

• Main sites visited: Greyfriars Bobby Statue, National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, Royal Mile, St. Giles’ Cathedral, Camera Obscura and World of Illusions
• Restaurant tip: The Piper’s Rest
• Further reading: 15 of the Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

See the route for day 1 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps
 

Your first day in Edinburgh will be full of fun and crammed with curiosities! There are a total of nine places of interest on this section of the itinerary, including the best things to see on the Royal Mile and elsewhere in the city center. All the distance you’ll cover on day 1 in Edinburgh is walkable (with the exception of two short bus journeys), so leave the car at the hotel. Driving in the city center is stressful, and nobody needs that on vacation.

Day 1, Stop 1: The Vennel Viewpoint and Greyfriars Bobby Statue

The Vennel Viewpoint
 

• Distance from hotel: 2.4 km (1.5 mi), a 35-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1 hour

When in Edinburgh, forget the tourist buses. You’re here for the history and heritage; not the Instagram pictures (though, let’s be honest, you’ll take a few). Start at The Vennel Viewpoint like I did—a spot that’s more a local treasure than one of the "top 10 must-see attractions." It's a little alleyway that offers one of the best, yet most underrated views of Edinburgh Castle.

As I climbed each of those worn stone steps, I felt like I was turning back the clock of time. The castle loomed overhead like it was about to start raining medieval battle cries. And the best part? No jostling with a hundred other tourists for the perfect shot, especially if you go at sunrise like we did. It’s your moment with the castle, one-on-one.

Greyfriars Bobby Statue

Visiting Greyfriars Bobby

We then headed just around the corner to one of Edinburgh’s most beloved landmarks—the Greyfriars Bobby Statue. This tiny bronze dog has been melting hearts since the 19th century. According to local legend, after his owner passed away, Bobby the Skye Terrier spent 14 years faithfully guarding his grave, rain or shine, in Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetry. If this story doesn’t make you choke up even just a little, I’m sorry, but you’re dead inside.

Be warned: while many tourists rub the statue’s nose for "good luck," locals will roll their eyes. It’s not really a thing, and honestly, you’re just polishing poor Bobby’s snout to a tacky gold. Instead, pay your respects, snap a photo if you must, and take a moment to appreciate the pup's loyalty. Then, head into the cemetery itself for some serious Gothic vibes. Congratulations, you’ve just begun your two-day Edinburgh adventure like a local: steeped in history and just a little off the beaten path.

Day 1, Stop 2: National Museum of Scotland

Cool interior and a T-rex in the National Museum of Scotland
 

• Distance from last stop: 87 m (285 ft), a 1-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: Daily 10 am–5 pm
• Price: free
• Official website: https://www.nms.ac.uk/national-museum-of-scotland

We then made a beeline for something else free to do with 48 hours in Edinburgh. The National Museum of Scotland is just across the street and pretty conspicuous—Bobby the dog is even looking in its direction. The building is large, modern and asymmetrical with a cylindrical corner. Oh, and there are banners outside that read ‘National Museum of Scotland’. Even if you’re an idiot, you’ll find it.

The main part of the interior is an atrium. I thought it might have once been a prison, but apparently not. There are seven floors of fun and interesting things to learn about Scotland; you can (and should) definitely spend half a day here. I felt pretty immersed in everything.

My favorite floor was the lowest one—here is where you’ll learn all about the geology of Scotland, the scientific reason why the country is rich in coal and oil. I love history, so I also particularly enjoyed learning about the Roman occupation of England and how this managed to influence Southern Scotland, as well as how Scotland’s became separated from England. There’s also a T-rex skeleton hanging from the ceiling, because as is common knowledge, dinosaurs were invented in Edinburgh.

Day 1, Stop 3: Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament

The Palace of Holyrood
 

• Distance from last stop: 1.3 km (0.8 mi), a 17-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours (Holyrood Palace): Daily 9:30 am–6 pm (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Opening hours (Scottish Parliament): 10 am–5 pm, Monday, Friday and Saturday (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Price (Holyrood Palace): GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14)
• Price (Scottish Parliament): free
• Official website (Holyrood Palace): https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse
• Official website (Scottish Parliament): https://www.parliament.scot/visit/

After the museum, it was time to head to Holyrood Palace, the official royal residence in Scotland. It’s one of the country’s most culturally significant buildings, located at the top of the Royal Mile at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh’s iconic extinct volcano.

Entry to Holyrood Palace costs GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14), which I hope doesn’t go to the King himself, and you’re given an audio guide. You really need this because there are no signs in the palace, so don’t be too cocky and turn it down thinking you’re some sort of modern-day Christopher Columbus.

I was quite astounded by The King’s Gallery; so many paintings, furniture, and decorative items—the kind that nobody really needs. Mary, Queen of Scots also makes a lot of appearances. And there’s a “throne room”. I thought this must refer to His Majesty’s private bathroom, but no—it’s just a bunch of old chairs.

The paintings in the King’s Gallery
 

Out back, there’s Holyrood Abbey, or the ruins of, seeing as it doesn’t function anymore. I found it impressively well-preserved, imposing, even haunting. I bet it’d be a great place to go ghost-hunting late at night!

Visiting the Scottish Parliament

The Scottish Parliament is just next door to the palace. We only had a quick peek—we might as well, since we were there. But it’s not really a "parliament", now, is it? (Commiserations to any campaigners for Scottish independence, but yeah, you’re still Westminster’s bitch.)

The building itself is pure modernist eye candy, designed by Catalonian architect Enric Miralles. With its many haphazard shapes, quirky curves and sharp angles, the experience is much like a magic mushroom-induced trip to IKEA.

We spent our short visit wandering through the visitor areas, listening to a debate, and pretending we understood the finer points of devolution. I felt I earned a gold badge that says “You tried” on it.

Tip: the public gallery is free, so you can witness democracy in action without spending a penny. This was turning out to be a cheap morning!

Day 1, Stop 4: Royal Mile

Take a walk along the Royal Mile
 

• Distance from last stop: 28 m (92 ft), a 1-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours

Going back into town, we strolled down the Royal Mile—the most famous street in Edinburgh, stretching from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle. Now, brace yourself for this shocker: it’s not actually a mile long. It’s a "Scots mile", which, in true quirky Scottish fashion, is just over a mile. Classic Edinburgh—always keeping you on your toes. 

Anyway, tourism got this place good as it’s mainly full of restaurants, cafés, gift shops, and tour groups with selfie sticks. They’re definitely capitalizing on Pottermania here too, as you can pay to take a tour that begins on the Royal Mile to see the spots that inspired the settings in the Harry Potter books. While I’m not the type to don a Gryffindor scarf and go on a scavenger hunt for Diagon Alley, I do get why people are drawn to the witchy mystique of the architecture on the Royal Mile.

But this isn’t just Harry Potter’s hood; the Royal Mile has a history that’s even more dramatic. This street was the heart of medieval Edinburgh, once teeming with markets, public executions (yikes), and the odd royal procession. The tall, narrow buildings, or “tenements”, were the medieval version of skyscrapers, crammed with residents in every nook and cranny. (It seems not much has changed on this front, thanks to the thriving success of Airbnb).

And don't forget the weather—those gloomy clouds hanging over the street add to the dour vibe. But then again, this applies to the entire city, not just the Royal Mile. In Edinburgh, the clouds are practically an architectural feature themselves.

Day 1, Stop 5: Adam Smith statue and St. Giles’ Cathedral

Adam Smith guarding the St. Giles’ Cathedral
 

• Time spent here: 45 minutes
• Opening hours: 10:00 am–6 pm (Monday–Friday), 9 am–5 pm (Saturday), 1 pm–5 pm (Sunday)
• Price: free, donations welcome
• Official website: https://www.stgilescathedral.org.uk/

The Royal Mile is also home to Adam Smith (or his statue, to be exact), the 18^th-century figure who wrote the book on capitalism (literally: The Wealth of Nations). Now, here he stands, overseeing the hustle and bustle of the street, covered in bird poop like the world’s most unfortunate economic adviser. He’d probably have something to say about how tourism’s turned this place into a capitalist dream. But let’s be real—being splattered with excrement, he looks just as silly as some of today’s politicians. Not exactly the look you want when you’re the face of the Scottish Enlightenment.

What to expect at St. Giles Cathedral

Behind him is St. Giles’ Cathedral, a real beauty of a building that’s been around since the 12th century. It’s hard to believe that something this grand has stood here through wars, reformations, and probably more than a few royal blow-ups.

When I went inside, I was immediately struck by how bright and colorful it is—none of that gloomy, Gothic darkness you see from the outside. The ceiling is a stunning deep blue, complete with gold embellishments that could easily pass for a royal crown, and turquoise tapestries hang from the columns like regal banners. Then there’s the light filtering through the stained-glass windows, casting the place in a turquoise glow that makes it feel magical.

Unfortunately, though, the serenity was spoiled somewhat by the crowds. It’s hard to feel spiritually uplifted when there are so many of those selfie stick-swinging tourists around.

Tip: if you’re feeling generous, you can donate to the cathedral by card. It’s 2024, after all—no excuses for being cheap in a place this awe-inspiring!

Day 1, Stop 6: Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

Get to the rooftop to see this amazing 360 view of Edinburgh!
 

• Distance from last stop: 320 m (0.2 mi), a 5-minute walk
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: 9 am–8 pm (Monday–Thursday), 9 am–9 pm (Friday and Sunday), 9 am–10 pm (Saturday)
• Price: GBP 22.50 (USD 29.30)
• Official website: https://www.camera-obscura.co.uk/

Camera Obscura and World of Illusions is the oldest tourist attraction in Edinburgh. It has a lot of charm, and it's a bit expensive to get in—a ticket costs GBP 22.50 (USD 29.30). It was absolutely worth it, though.

It’s like many other museums of illusions, though it’s likely this one is the first as it houses the original camera obscura—a 150-year-old piece of equipment that displayed the first ever moving picture. It’s also worth noting that as far as exhibitions go, this one is very child-friendly.

There are six floors of illusions; the clichéd mirror mazes being on the fourth floor, and the third floor being noticeably, let’s say, retro. By comparison, the fifth floor has a modern technological theme, and it was definitely my favorite. A special mention goes to the electric feather—I was truly mesmerized!

I still can’t figure out the electric feather
 

The 360-degree rooftop view over Edinburgh was a major plus, making up for the entry fee. The immediate location is truly stunning—the compelling uniqueness of this city is that it looks like it’s caught between medieval times and the Renaissance period. Up here, you get great views of the castle, the Royal Mile, and even of bits of neighboring Fife on the other side of the Firth of Forth. Another major plus: although, as we know, Lothian weather is notoriously crappy, we got lucky on this evening with some clear(ish) skies.

I spotted The Balmoral hotel by Waverley station, with its clock tower that runs three minutes fast to help people not to miss their trains. I took some amazing photos of the castle and St. Margaret’s Chapel, where they’ll marry you for free if your name is Margaret. But anyway, enough quirky Edinburgh trivia for now; it’s been a long day and it’s time to head back to the soccer ground for a good night’s sleep. (That’s a sentence you don’t read every day!)

 

Day 2: Edinburgh Castle and outer Edinburgh

See the first part of the route for day 2 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps
 

• Main sites visited: Edinburgh Castle, Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith Walk, Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh Zoo
• Restaurant tips: Dine Murrayfield
• Further reading: 15 of the Best Things to Do in Edinburgh | 11 Day Trips from Edinburgh

See the second part of the route for day 2 of your Edinburgh itinerary on Google Maps
 

It’s the latter day of your two-day Edinburgh itinerary! Time to get in the car and discover what the outskirts of Edinburgh have to offer (spoiler: a lot).

But first, you’ll start with two more famous sites in the center—ones not to be missed, though you didn’t quite have time for them on day 1. Next, you’ll be in the northeast of the city to find what I deem to be the most interesting thing on this two-day itinerary in Edinburgh. Then, you’ll take a walk that finishes atop the city’s greatest geological feature, before heading back over to the west side to see some wild animals... and dodge some children.

Day 2, Stop 1: Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle
 

• Distance from hotel: 2.7 km (1.7 mi), a 40-minute walk or 25 minutes on public transport
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: Daily 9:30 am–6 pm (last entry at 4:30 pm)
• Price: GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14)
• Official website: https://www.edinburghcastle.scot/

Edinburgh Castle is sort of the top dog of Edinburgh sights, so I was eager to put it down as the first stop on the second day of my two-day itinerary.

Edinburgh Castle tickets

Even first thing in the morning, the line to get in was huge and I’m told that tickets sell out quickly (I guess they have a limit on the number of people they can admit at once). A ticket costs GBP 18.50 (USD 24.14) and you have to pay extra for an audio guide.

Tip: go as early as you can. They start closing the castle at 5 pm, and even if you’re in line at 4:30, you might be turned away if you’re not at the front.

What to expect at Edinburgh Castle

The complex is very large—it’s essentially a collection of smaller museums. I have to say, the whole thing isn’t well-organized at all. There’s no map, which would surely be essential for someone who’s never set foot in the place before. (I mean, my sense of direction is good, but my intuition is limited.) But somehow, we made our way through the exhibits and the chaos lessened the further through the castle we went.

Most of what’s on display revolves around Scotland’s military history and comes with gripping, complex stories: tales from the Battle of Waterloo, the Crimean War and both World Wars, to name a few. I’m going to be straight with you: Edinburgh Castle isn’t for pacifists. This place cuts no corners when it comes to glorifying battle, and if you can’t deal with that, leave it out of your itinerary.

The tour of Edinburgh Castle is fairly well presented
 

Luckily, I’m no such snowflake. My highlights were a wall of letters and other memoirs from soldiers, the section on the Royal Dragoons—a 300-year-old regiment, and the memorial chapel. It was all very poignant—I even got a little emotional.

Oh, and something less tear-jerking, but equally cool to see was the Stone of Destiny. They wheel out this ungraceful block of sandstone for every coronation. I’m not sure why, but what I do know now is that “the Stone of Destiny” is what I want my gravestone to be known as when I’m dead.

And as proud as the Scots are of their military, past and present, it seems they’re equally proud of their bagpipes as you’ll also see these everywhere. I have mixed opinions on bagpipes. On one hand, they’re a really impressive instrument and whenever I hear them, I immediately think “Ah, great, I’m in Scotland—my favorite country!” However, after about a minute, admittedly, I start to get pissed off by the screeching. Thankfully, all the bagpipes at Edinburgh Castle are safely out of reach of any potential passing piper.

To top it all off, Edinburgh Castle also offers beautiful views
 

Of course, such a rich, extensive display of military history couldn’t not be complemented by a dignified mention of the royal family. Edinburgh Castle is where the Scottish Crown Jewels are kept, and I was stunned by how beautiful they are in real life. I was also drawn in by a timeline of monarchs. Because I’m orderly, organized, not to mention mildly obsessive, I can’t resist a timeline, and it did make it easier for all the royal history I’d just learned about to slot into place.

On the way out, there’s a fantastic audiovisual presentation on the 13^th-century siege of the castle—be sure not to miss it. Remember to donate what you can—remember, no one likes a cheapskate. And lastly, everyone loves a good view, and I have to say, the views from Edinburgh Castle are remarkable, offering a panoramic view of the city and even a glimpse of the beautiful Princes Street Gardens below. So even if you don’t like learning about war or royalty, take a walk up there anyway to energize yourself for the second day of exploring ahead.

Next stop: Scott Monument!

Day 2, Stop 2: Scott Monument

The Scott Monument and its view
 

• Distance from last stop: 643 m (0.4 mi), a 10-minute walk
• Time spent here: 30 minutes
• Opening hours: Daily 10 am–12:30 pm; 1:45 pm–4:30 pm
• Price: GBP 8 (USD 10.56)

Coming down from the castle and ready to climb something else (walking around on this Edinburgh itinerary, you’re constantly going up and down like a yo-yo), Scott Monument is a towering Victorian Gothic homage to the Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott. You can climb all 287 steps to the top of it as part of a tour, passing several viewing platforms on different levels along the way.

Who was Sir Walter Scott?

Sir Walter Scott was a Scottish novelist, poet, and historian, famous for works like "Ivanhoe" and "Rob Roy." He played a major role in popularizing historical fiction and shaping how Scotland’s history and legends are viewed today.

This sort of architecture isn’t everyone’s jam, but I thought it was a beautiful monument and you get some of the best views over the city from the top. It’s in Princes Street Gardens, after all, which is right in the middle of the action in Edinburgh.

But we didn’t stick around for too long; we had somewhere even better to go, which turned out to be my favorite thing to see in Edinburgh...

Day 2, Stop 3: Royal Yacht Britannia

Royal Yacht Britannia and its captain (it’s me)
 

• Distance from hotel: 9 km (5.6 mi), a 25-minute drive
• Time spent here: 2.5 hours
• Opening hours: Daily 10 am–4 pm
• Price: GBP 19.50 (USD 25.45)
• Official website: https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

From Princes Street Gardens, we took a bus back to the hotel to pick up the car and drive to this total beauty. Britannia was the yacht that served the British royal family between 1954 and 1997, traveling a whopping 500,000 miles during that time. It’s now permanently on show to the public just north of Edinburgh.

Really, “yacht” doesn’t cut it; when you think of a yacht, you surely don’t think of a boat as huge as this one. We walked around it for at least two hours and covered three kilometers (nearly two miles)!

We ended up leaving the car at the parking lot at Ocean Terminal, the nearby shopping complex. Entry to the yacht costs GBP 19.50 (USD 25.45) and you get given an audio guide (for free—take note, Edinburgh Castle). You can listen to the guide at your own pace in lots of languages. They even had my native Czech! I was half-expecting to hear Czech in a Scottish accent, which would have been too funny. No, it was just a lovely, proper-speaking Prague girl.

Royal Yacht Britannia abounds with interesting facts
 

I’ll be honest: this tour was amazing—for me, the best thing on my two-day itinerary in Edinburgh. It gave me a much better insight into the royal family than anything else I’d experienced, namely, just how expensive it must be to have them. It made me appreciate living in a republic more.

The coolest things I learned and saw on the Royal Not-a-Yacht Britannia...

• The admiral had to change into 12 different outfits every day. He was just as bad as my girlfriend!
   
• They had a Rolls-Royce onboard for their annual trips to the Western Isles. What a bad choice of car for rugged terrain.
   
• The rooms on the ship are relatively modest. Is this where most Scottish hotels get their inspiration from?!
   
• I loved seeing some of their old family photos. Queen Elizabeth had more kids than I thought, and Princess Anne was quite the looker back in the day.

Don't forget to take a beer break when visiting Edinburgh!
 

• I liked the dining room a lot—I’d love to host a formal dinner of my own there. (I wonder how much it costs to hire...) What particularly impressed my obsessive mind was the precise placement of the crockery, the spaces between everything having been measured with a millimeter ruler.
   
• The crew’s quarters were very simple—the sailors slept in cramped bunk beds below deck. Seeing this did not better my opinions on the monarchy.
   
• There’s a whisky distillery next to the boat. It’d be rude not to drop in, so we did. And before you ask, yes, I stayed within the drink-driving limit.

Day 2, Stop 4: Leith Walk

Let’s head down to the Leith Walk
 

• Distance from last stop: 1.6 km (1 mi), a 25-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours

We were pretty royal’d-out, so it was time to trade posh for pedestrian and head down Leith Walk, Edinburgh’s most eclectic street. It’s the closest thing the city has to any kind of “cultural melting pot”—just with more whisky. And pies.

Leith Walk connects the old port of Leith—where the ship is—with the heart of Edinburgh, and walking down it is like taking a time machine that’s got its settings jammed on "random”. One minute, you’re passing Victorian tenements; the next, you’re dodging hipster cafés that serve vegan haggis (is there any need?) and craft beer. I was positively overcome by the sheer variety on offer: Turkish barbers, Italian delis, Polish supermarkets. Feeling snacky, I just opted for a good ol’ Scotch pie.

As you leave Leith Walk and start to get closer to Arthur’s Seat, the vibe shifts. The noise and bustle of Leith fade away, and suddenly I was staring at a craggy, ancient hill that looks like it was plopped down here straight from a Tolkien novel. I just had to climb it!

Day 2, Stop 5: Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat
 

• Distance from last stop: 1.9 km (1.2 mi), a 40-minute walk
• Time spent here: 1.5 hours

As I mentioned earlier, Arthur’s Seat is technically an extinct volcano, which feels very on-brand for Scotland. Dramatic, a bit brooding, and full of surprises—a bit like the Edinburgh locals.

Leaving behind the urban grit of Leith Walk and arriving in the sprawling green of Holyrood Park, you’ll see joggers, dog walkers, and a few brave souls attempting the hike in wildly inappropriate footwear. Don’t be fooled by the leisurely start to the trail; it ends up being pretty steep, so wear hiking shoes.

Reaching the top is like standing on the roof of Edinburgh. The 360-degree views are unreal—Edinburgh Castle looks like a tiny toy fortress from up here, and the Royal Mile winds its way through the city like the ribbon of history it is. It’s one of those great hiking moments that makes all the strain worth it. And ahot fair bonus: after climbing an old volcano, I surely earned myself the right to skip leg day for the rest of the week.

Tip: when you come down, retrace your steps, but don’t feel the need to walk all the way back to where you left the car, at Ocean Terminal. (I mean, you can if you want, but you’ll probably be tired.) There are several bus connections that’ll get you there.

Day 2, Stop 6: Edinburgh Zoo

Last stop on day 2 of your Edinburgh itinerary: Yes, they have pandas and koalas in Edinburgh Zoo!
 

• Distance from last stop: 10 km (6.2 mi), a 30-minute drive
• Time spent here: 2 hours
• Opening hours: Daily 10 am–4 pm (December–February), 10 am–5 pm (March and October), 10 am–6 pm (April–September)
• Price: GBP 24 (USD 31.66)
• Official website: https://www.edinburghzoo.org.uk/

To the west of the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh Zoo. This spot might not top your must-see list in a city filled with medieval charm and natural beauty, but it’s a solid half-day option if, either: you’re curious about wildlife (me), or you desperately need to entertain your children (definitely not me).

The zoo isn’t massive, so don’t expect a safari or anything, but I thought it was well laid out. It’s also run by a wildlife conservation charity, meaning the animals are well looked after. I must say, knowing this made me feel a bit more virtuous about visiting.

Everyone loses their minds over the pandas and the koalas. Sure, they’re cute, chilled out, and their climbing skills are impressive. The giraffes, though—now they have it made. Their enclosure gives them a panoramic view of Edinburgh, which is good because they wouldn’t fit into the elevators back at the World of Illusions.

There’s even a dinosaur exhibit. “How original,” I thought, having seen a bunch of T-rex bones at the National Museum of Scotland just the previous day. It’s great for kids, as I say, as are all the playgrounds. I don’t have a ton of patience for overly-kiddy places; this one’s already full of wild animals, what more do they want?! Oh, and they sell pizza and burgers. Kids like those, right?

Tip: it’s much easier to book your tickets online in advance—you can save money and even potentially skip the lines. Thank me later that you’re not stuck outside with a hangry kid and no pizza in sight.

BONUS: St Abb’s Head, the best day trip from Edinburgh for outdoorsy types

• Main sites visited: St Abb’s Head, St Abbs Harbor
• Restaurant tips: Ebbcarr’s Café
• Further reading: Scotland’s UNBELIEVABLE Driving Routes

Map of the St Abb’s Head trail (see more details on Alltrails)
 

Maybe you're not a city person at all and yet unfortunately, for some reason, you’re obliged to visit Edinburgh. Perhaps you’re going to be here for a wedding, a conference, or I don't know— maybe you’ve been summoned to court. Well, I haven’t forgotten about you, dear nature-lover! Consider swapping one of the days on the two-day Edinburgh itinerary above for this easy day trip to St Abb’s Head in the Scottish Borders. Teaser: it involves walking and wild winds.

• Distance from hotel: 88.2 km (54.8 mi), a 1-hour-and-25-minute drive
• Price: free (GBP 5 (USD 6.5) for parking)
• Official website: https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/st-abbs-head

St Abbs is a small fishing village around 75 km (47 mi) from Edinburgh and just 14 km (9 mi) from the English border, and it offers some truly epic views. You reach it by taking a super scenic route off the A1 highway.

Fun fact: St Abbs is where some of the scenes from The Avengers: Endgame were filmed!

The road leads past the sea and the cliffs, it’s a joy to walk there... maybe swap this place for another on your Edinburgh itinerary
 

Since we’re seasoned walkers, we wanted to take a hike along the coast here. It’s a well-trodden path that you can begin either at the nearby St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve, or at the harbor in the village itself. We went for the former as it was pretty easy to park up, probably easier than it would have been in St Abbs.

I thought the place was incredibly photogenic. Every viewpoint offers amazing rocks, and there’s a fascinating contrast here between the farmland and the cliffs. If someone showed me a picture of these surroundings and cropped out the sea, I’d never guess it was by the coast. The wind is crazy, especially at Pettico Wick, the trailhead, so I was extremely grateful at this stage for my windproof hood. And although I loved this for a bit of an adrenaline rush, for those afraid of heights, beware: the cliffs are steeper in reality than in the photos you see online!

You won't be able to put your camera down here. This place is so photogenic
 

It’s definitely worth following the yellow trail at first before switching to the purple one to catch sight of St Abb's Head Lighthouse. The whole hike takes about two hours; time incredibly well spent, in my opinion. As is common in Scotland, it’s free to walk the trail, but parking costs GBP 5 (USD 6.5) for the day, which is fair enough.

We’d deserved a good lunch at the end of our walk, so we found Ebbcarrs Café in St. Abbs itself. It’s a no-frills seafood spot that serves up the freshest catch straight from the North Sea. This was definitely the kind of ambience I could fall in love with: a bowl of Cullen skink (traditional haddock soup) on a bench outside, breathing in the sea air.

Don’t expect fancy plating or pretentious service, but do expect crispy fish and chips, fresh crab sandwiches, and the odd seagull eyeing your meal. It was just what we needed: the perfect pit-stop where the seafood’s as honest as the people serving it.

 

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