A 2-Week Peru Itinerary: A Day-By-Day Trip Plan

Peru is such an underrated gem of a country that even if you spend 2 weeks traveling between the highlights, you’d have barely scratched the surface! That’s why we have another, longer itinerary ready for you. It just might persuade you to take a bit more time off. Come on, you know you deserve it!

But if you can’t or don’t want to spend 4 weeks in Peru, which, in my humble opinion, is the better option, feast your eyes and brain on this fantastic 2-week trip plan.

A quick overview of your 2 weeks in Peru itinerary:

Day 0: Arrival to Lima
Day 1: Lima Sightseeing
Day 2: Paracas Natural Reserve
Day 3: Islas Ballestas
Day 4: Travel to Arequipa
Day 5: Arequipa
Day 6: Laguna de Salinas and whitewater rafting
Day 7: Colca Canyon
Day 8: Cuzco inner center
Day 9: Cuzco Outer Center
Day 10: Cuzco Inca sites
Day 11: Rainbow Mountain
Day 12: Sacred Valley
Day 13: Machu Picchu
Day 14: Travel to Lima and departure

 

 

Day 0: Arrival to Lima

Safely arrived in Lima!
 

You are likely to arrive in Lima in the evening. I recommend having a hotel near the airport and in the city center or in Miraflores (which is the nicer neighborhood).

Lima is one of those places you have to either love or hate, and, since I attempted driving in Lima, I’m leaning on the neutral side. Without the driving, I’d be hovering around like a side.

Once you leave the most frustratingly slow airport I’ve ever met, you’ll be happy to find that the airport isn’t located out in no man’s land, and you’ll be doubting your decision to go to Lima in the first place in the comfort of your own hotel room in only about 15 minutes.

Ditch the rental, get a taxi, and “enjoy” the ride from the airport with your life and sanity in someone else’s hands. Get the Cabify app on your phone and always choose the best class of car available, because anything less than luxury and you’ll be glad the car has doors, let alone seatbelts. It’ll set you back about USD 18. Getting a regular taxi that is waiting at the airport will cost a little more, around USD 25.

Tip: Don’t get a Peruvian SIM card at the airport. The prices are extremely high compared to what you get in town. This and other tips you need to read before you go to Peru in another article. Lately you can get apps like Airalo, which is basically an easily installable e-sim.

So after you accommodate yourself in the fancy Miraflores neighborhood you can walk around at any time of day or night without feeling like someone is always lurking in the shadows watching you.

If you’re flying into Lima early and my description of Lima doesn’t entice you, you can see the main bits of Lima on arrival day and get the heck out of there the very next morning. Otherwise, leave day 0 as a travel day and see some of the (admittedly good) things Lima has to offer the next day in a more relaxed manner.

This two-week itinerary will be packed with experiences. I recommend loading into the pool overlooking Lima first

Which hotel to stay in Lima?

I’m recommending only staying in international hotel chains in Peru because everything else is hit or miss. This isn’t my usual tip, but in Peru, I felt like a Hilton Hotel representative. You know what to expect, you don’t have to worry about the standard and the staff always speak English.

The thing I really liked about Miraflores Hilton Hotel is their restaurant which is one of the best reviewed in Lima and is actually good. The breakfast is a nice treat and on the day of our departure we had lunch here (I had a ceviche) and it was really great.

If you book any hotel through our links (and it can even be a different hotel than we recommend), we get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for using our links!

 

 

Day 1: Lima sightseeing

The cathedral on Plaza de Armas
 

Main sites visited on day 1: Plaza de Armas, Convento de San Francisco, Miraflores walks, Larco Museum
Hotel recommendations: Miraflores Hilton Hotel
Further reading: 1 Day in Lima Itinerary , Top 10 things to do in Lima
Dinner: Astrid y Gaston (very nice fine dining restaurant)

Day 1 Morning: Plaza de Armas and Convento de San Francisco

Convento de Sand Francisco on Plaza de Armas
 

For sightseeing in Lima, you’ll need to take a taxi to the Plaza de Armas in the historic district. A taxi between districts won’t cost more than USD 3–4. 

You’ll see Lima’s typical yellow buildings with their dark wooden covered balconies, otherwise known as spy boxes for the rich. Looking around will take you a maximum of 1 hour. Then head toward the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco. It’s a whole religious precinct right by the Plaza de Armas. I found it quite interesting and it can take you about 2 hours.

Tickets for the guided tours are on a first-come, first-served basis and cost USD 4. Tours are available in English and Spanish. We took the English one and guide was actually good. For me, the Convento de San Francisco was a nice introduction to the Spanish colonial history of Viceroyalty of Peru and as I love history, I really like it.

After you breeze through the Convent you can catch a quick lunch around. We did not find anything superb around so I will leave it up to you.

Day 1 Afternoon: Museum Larco and Miraflores

Museo Larco website
 

You have to hop in the taxi again and get to the highlight of Lima: the Larco Museum. It’s in a gorgeous mansion, it’s well organized, the descriptions are clear and informative, and you learn tons about the history of ancient Peruvian civilizations. A must at the beginning of any trip to Peru.

Allocate at least 2 hours for the tour unless you love these kinds of museums and want to read each and every sign, in which case set aside 3. Tickets cost USD 10. It is by far the most famous museum in Peru and arguably in South America. What got me is that it is actually privately owned and was mainly collected by its benefactor.

I loved how the museum is organized into sections, different cultures, and timelines. It's OCD, pardon me, actually, it’s wet dreams for me!

After you satisfy all the hunger for knowledge you can hop in the taxi again and go back to Miraflores where you started.

Top tip: I honestly do not recommend driving in Lima or using public transport as both options felt dangerous to me.

The green cliffs of Miraflores
 

The upscale Miraflores neighborhood, sits to the south of central Lima atop the cliffs over the ocean with tons of restaurants, shopping, top hotels, and great views from the boardwalk/sidewalk atop the cliffs. The sunsets here are spectacular.

Miraflores doesn’t have any particular points of interest. It mainly consists of walking on a sea boardwalk through interesting parks and seeing all the graffiti and the green cliffs that you know from all the pictures of Lima. I would guess it's also one of the main reasons people want to travel to Lima in the first place.

The best things I would recommend seeing in Miraflores are Kennedy Park, Love’s Park, Marine Lighthouse, and Bridge of Sighs. Don’t forget to read much more about Miraflores in our Lima 1 day itinerary.

 

 

Day 2: Paracas Natural Reserve

Paracas Natural Reserve
 

Main sites visited on day 2: Paracas Natural Reserve -
Hotel recommendations: The Legend by Hyatt
Further reading: Top things to do in Paracas Natural Reserve
Dinner: At the Hilton or La Tia Fea

Now you can rent a car and off you go to a town called Paracas, home of the Paracas National Reserve. It’s also the starting point of the boat trips to the Islas Ballestas, which is in the plan for tomorrow.

Pro tip: You rent a 4x4 which is going to make your Paracas visit easier as there are dirt roads, but a normal car is a fine option as well.

Most rental places we tried in Peru sucked even though they were part of the biggest brands of rental companies. More on renting cars and driving in Peru here. Instead, read reviews online and don’t be afraid to rent through a local agency with high ratings.

Renting a car in Peru isn’t cheap. The actual rental price of USD 50–70 per day for an SUV or similar vehicle is ok. But add on collision insurance and you’ll double the price!

Day 2 Morning: Rent a car and drive to Paracas

My to-do list was clear: Rent a nice car, do a little photo-shooting, and head to Paracas!
 

From Lima, Paracas town is a 3-hour, 250 km (150 miles) drive on the Pan-American Highway. The trip is long, but the road is good and hey, you drove on a small part of the world’s longest road!

You can stop for lunch and drop off your bags at your hotel. You have to take our advice here and book yourselves into The Legend by Hyatt. We have a love affair with this hotel, see below. Of course, its restaurant, El Pardo al Mar, is fantastic as well. 

Day 2 Afternoon: Paracas Natural Reserve

You’ll spend most of your afternoon in the Paracas National Reserve. The desert here is vast and beautiful, and, coupled with the blue and turquoise shades of the ocean, is truly a memorable sight.

And guess what?! More time in the car! You’ll need 4 hours to drive the 23 km (14 miles) route in the national reserve, including stops to take in the views and fill your Instagram.

You buy your tickets and get your map at the main entrance on the road just south of Paracas town. The road is easy to navigate.  Tickets cost USD 3.

The best stops for me were La Catedral, Playa Yumanqui, and Paracas Isthmus.

This is the map we got at the entrance to the Paracas National Reserve
 

Before you get to the last stop on the map you’ll find an area with a bunch of ocean-side mom-and-pop restaurants. Our favorite was Cevichería La Tia Fela. The chairs were plastic but the fish were super fresh!

Read our article about the top things to see in Paracas for all the details of the individual stops and more tips.

 

 

Hotel for the night

Enjoy the cocktails and sunsets on the beach at The Legend by Hyatt
 

The Legend by Hyatt was amazing, as we’ve very happily mentioned throughout our Peru articles. Right on the beach with ocean views from our room, amazing pool, breakfast, and staff at a standard every other hotel in Peru needs to take note of. Not to mention the hundreds of flamingos as neighbors and the free kayak and paddleboard rentals.

 

 

 

Day 3: Islas Ballestas

View from the boat tour around Islas Ballestas
 

Main sites visited on day 3: Islas Ballestas
Hotel recommendations: The Legend by Hyatt
Further reading: Complete Guide to visiting Islas Ballestas
Dinner: At Hilton or La Tia Fea

Another day of no sleeping in! Where’s the vacation?!

How to get to Islas Ballestas

To get to the Islas Ballestas, you’ll need to go on an organized boat tour. And since the sea is much calmer in the mornings than in the afternoons, that’s the time we recommend going.

Group tours go for about 25 USD per person, and may or may not include the USD 4 entrance fee to the national reserve. If the price doesn’t include the fee, you will pay it at the pier. Hotel pick-up and drop-off can also be extra.

Tours take 2 hours from start to finish. Details are available in our full Islas Ballestas article.

 

 

Visiting the islands

Islas Ballestas and its residents
 

The Islas Ballestas, or Ballestas Islands, are a popular tourist destination in Peru just off of Paracas. It’s a small group of rock formations jutting out from the sea. They’re famous for the thousands of birds that congregate on the rocks and make them nice and poopy and ready for guano mining. You’ll also get to check out tons of seals, sea lions, and penguins.

You will hop on board a boat which might be a group visit or you can even buy a private tour. We went for a group visit and I would go private next time.

You will be racing toward the Ballestas Islands on the boat for about 40 minutes, during which you can see dolphins or whales, which we did. Then you arrive and drive around for a few hours watching different kinds of birds and many, many sea lions.

After the tour you will be significantly winded, so I recommend doing a leisure activity like paddle boarding, swimming in Paracas Natural Reserve, or kite surfing.

 

Day 4: Travel to Arequipa

Time to pack up and hop back in your nice comfortable car. Next stop: Lima Airport and then flight straight to Arequipa
 

Main sites visited on day 4: Travel to Arequipa
Hotel recommendations: Sonesta Hotel Arequipa
Further reading: Popular Peruvian Foods
Dinner: 13monjas

Today you will hate me. But it’s not my fault that Peru is so damn huge!

Day 4 Morning + Afternoon

You’ll be driving back up to Lima and then flying down to Arequipa. It seems like backtracking but it’s either that or driving for 13 hours covering 780 km (480 miles) from Paracas to Arequipa and then paying a lot of extra cash for returning the car to a different place. A hard pass on that from me.

First, drive 250 km (150 miles) from Paracas to Lima, drop off your rental car, and then reach for the sky!

There are over 60 flights from Lima to Arequipa a day. They take 1.5 hours and plane tickets cost USD 50.

They rent interesting cars in Arequipa. Anyway, very durable, almost made of stone, I'd say...
 

Get a rental car at the airport. Use Alkila Rent a Car and be prepared to pay upwards of USD 100 per day. I mean it. I had serious trouble finding a reasonably priced rental car company and this one actually delivered the car in front of my hotel which is a big plus for me.

After arrival, you can get yourself comfortable in your hotel and get ready for dinner in 13 Monejas restaurants which I loved. It's well located in the historical center and the food and service were really good.

Pro tip: Get your car on day 6 as you won't need the car tomorrow (day 5), so you can save some bucks for a car that would otherwise be parked at the hotel.

 

Day 5: Arequipa

Arequipa Basilica Cathedral
 

Main sites visited on day 5: Plaza de Armas, Iglesia de la Compania, Santa Catalina Monastery, Mundo Alpaca, Mirador de Yanahuara
Hotel recommendations: Sonesta Hotel Arequipa
Further reading: Best things to do in Arequipa
Dinner: Pasta Canteen

It’s time to slow down for a bit. With no driving and no big adventures today, you’ll have enough time to take in the whiteness of the White City of Arequipa. Everything here is built from the white volcanic rock called sillar, giving Arequipa a unique, bright appearance.

You’ll also be starting your acclimatization process. Arequipa sits at 2,300 m (7,600 ft) above sea level, which is nothing compared to Cusco’s 3,400 m (11,000 ft). This is why I recommend going to Arequipa first and to Cusco second, getting used to the thinner air bit by bit, or else facing the wrath of altitude sickness. The side trips out of Arequipa will take you to very high altitudes, too, so having a lower ground to retreat back to is a plus. I made a mistake of going to Cusco first and suffered.

You can walk everywhere in Arequipa’s city center. I didn’t exactly feel safe in the outskirts, so maybe don’t go there, or, if you must, take a taxi. Also, driving in Arequipa is almost as crazy as in Lima. Read our guide to driving in Peru for more information on that. You’ll be glad you have a car though during the day trips on the following days.

 

 

Day 5 Morning: Plaza de Armas and Basilica Cathedral

See the Arequipa highlights on Google Maps

Plaza de Armas

After plenty of beauty sleep and a hearty breakfast, take a walk around the Plaza de Armas. The main square is the nicest I’ve seen in all of Latin America. It’s full of cafes and shops. El Misti Volcano looms in the background just asking for tons of photos. And I mainly loved how everything is made out of sillar rock so it really is a white city.

Top tip: Arequipa is a very walkable city. You will only need a taxi to drive downtown and back.

Iglesia de la Compana

After you look around for a while visit the massive, white Basilica Cathedral (Iglesia de la Compana), which is an obvious standout in the city center. It’s right on the Plaza de Armas. To visit the cathedral, you’ll need to buy your ticket for USD 3, which includes an hour-long guided tour (you can’t visit on your own). Be sure to dress appropriately—cover your knees and shoulders. The views from the cathedral’s rooftop are pretty spectacular!

Fun fact: It’s the only cathedral in the world where there is actually the Devil inside. I found it interesting that it actually did not burn.

The only cathedral in the world with the Devil Inside
 

Another thing that stood out for me was their organs which are so huge and complicated that only 3 people in the world can play them and they all have to train for it in Milano for years.

The absolute highlight of the visit is the views from the roof. This is where I took like 200 pictures of the White City and Misti Volcano.

After your Instagram is satisfied you can walk down to grab a quick lunch and get ready for the afternoon.

Day 5 Afternoon: Mundo Alpaca and Santa Catalina Monastery

It wouldn’t be a great Peru itinerary without the Alpacas!
 

Peruvian woman weaving alpaca textile in Alpaca Mundo Arequipa

Santa Catalina Monastery 

Santa Catalina Monastery was the surprise gem of Arequipa for me. Honestly, I was expecting quite a lot from the city itself, but I wasn’t expecting much from this religious site in particular. And it's absolutely massive! And it’s packed with great colonial information and all the info about their saints. From an architectonic perspective, it's really super interesting because all the sections have slightly different colors. It actually took us a lot more time than I thought it would to walk through.

Santa Catalina Monastery used to be like the Monaco of monasteries. Easy to visit on your own, though guides are available. Tickets cost USD 12.

Santa Catalina Monastery

Mundo Alpaca

Continuing up a bit further north is the Mundo Alpaca, a museum where you’ll learn the difference between alpacas and lamas and learn all about the textile industry that these animals have helped create. It was another unexpected delight where a free museum was actually good, which is uncommon for these “exit through the gift shop”-type museums.

Entrance is free but you’ll be sure to drop a dollar at the museum shop. Sweaters for everyone!  Ohh boy I bought 2 sweaters, and my wife bought a dress. I loved that my sweaters were made from super baby alpaca which is basically shaving newborn alpacas. How inhumane is that? You gotta love that!

If you have spare energy you can go and see the Yanahuara viewpoint where you can get the best pictures of the city. But it’s a pretty long walk.

Signs describing the different alpaca species in Mundo Alpaca
 

After your feet start hurting you can head over to Pasta Canteen for dinner and create your own pasta dish. 

 

 

Day 6: Laguna de Salinas and rafting Rio Chili

Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve
 

Main sites visited on day 6: Rio Chili whitewater rafting and Laguna de Salinas
Hotel recommendations:  Sonesta Hotel Arequipa
Further reading: Best Places to visit in Peru
Dinner: up to you

No more of this lazy business, today is the day you see some salty flamingos!

Day 6 Morning: whitewater rafting at Rio Chili

If you are in Peru during the dry months and don’t feel like getting car sick just to see some salt on the ground, opt for some whitewater rafting on Rio Chili instead. Actually, you could do both in one day if you’re that kind of over-active type!

Most of the rafting tours start in the early morning. Thanks to this the water will be even more Chili—see what I did there?

I absolutely loved our rafting experience. The rapids were real, not letting us rest the whole 1.5 hours we were on the water. We actually got through level 5 whitewater; well I guess it was more like 4.5 but anyway, the adrenalin rush was real! To this day it still remains one of the best whitewater rafting experiences I’ve been on, and I’ve tried plenty.

Try rafting they said, it’ll be fun, they said. That is a real picture of me.
 

Pro tip: Get ready to wear a lot of neoprene. Since the Rio Chili source is at a very high altitude, it’s not uncommon to have temperatures between 10–14 °C (50–57 °F).

The rafting part of the trip starts just 20 minutes outside of Arequipa’s city center and takes a total of 3 hours including transportation, wetsuiting up, and instructions. Most companies have 2–3 departures a day. Prices start at USD 25. We found ours on TripAdvisor and I actually liked it a lot. The guides were well-educated, and it seemed like a routine day for them, which makes it so much more secure and enjoyable for you.

Day 6 Afternoon: Laguna de Salinas and Ruta Sillar

Check the Laguna de Salinas rout on Alltrails.com

Laguna de Salinas

You’ll be visiting Laguna de Salinas, the most beautiful nature reserve I’ve seen in a long time. Like ever. The mix of the wetlands with tons of lamas, alpacas, and flamingos, and the snow-covered peaks of the mountains above, makes for a landscape like no other.

The drive to Laguna de Salinas is 60 km (38 miles) from Arequipa and takes 2 hours one way. You’ll be climbing up to Laguna de Salinas’ 4,300 m (14,000 ft), continuing your acclimatization efforts.

Spend an hour or two taking way too many photos, trying to position yourself for that perfect shot with El Misti in the center and a flamingo cuddling a llama mirrored in the lagoon.  

Take note that during the dry months of May to November, there is no lagoon to speak of, instead leaving behind a salty crust on the ground. With no water, there are also much fewer animals, so keep that in mind if you’re visiting at the wrong time of the year.

Ruta del Sillar

La Ruta del Sillar on Alltrails.com
 

If you need something to fill in the last hours of the day, take a look at Ruta del Sillar.

Ruta Sillar is actually one of the top things to do in Arequipa, and I’d say even in all of Peru. It’s a sillar quarry where you can go and see a variety of statues made of this volcanic rock. A 30-minute drive awaits you if you head over from Arequipa’s center. It's better to go there in the evening as it won't be scorching hot like during the day.

Tickets are just USD 1.5 and you will probably only spend 30–60 minutes at Ruta del Sillar.

 

Day 7: Colca Canyon

The second deepest Canyon in the world: Colca Canyon
 

Main sites visited on day 7: Colca Canyon or El Cañón del Colca 
Hotel recommendations:  Sonesta Hotel Arequipa
Further reading: Best Places to visit in Peru
Dinner: up to you

Today you’ll take on Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world that cuts 3,400 m (over 11,000 ft) deep into the mountains.

In all honesty, today’s driving is an undertaking, to say the least—4 hours one way (with some short breaks). But you’ve come this far, don’t give up! It is 120 km (75 miles) from Arequipa. I stayed for a night in Colca Canyon and in all honesty, it was not worth it. There is literally no civilization around so it's better to bite the bullet and make the drive back to Arequipa.

Colca Canyon is the biggest reason people even come to Arequipa, so you’ve got to go. Plus, there are condors! Otherwise known as the huge, ugly-headed birds that gave name to the most famous lookout point, Mirador Cruz del Cóndor. Many treks start from this point. You can also continue to Cabanaconde for more viewpoints.

Views of Colca Canyon
 

You can spend as little or as much time as you want at Colca Canyon. We were happy with just the viewpoints, but by all means, take a hike.

Pro tip: The main reason why people visit Colca Canyon is to see the condors, the biggest land birds. You can see most of them at Cruz del Condor. We saw them, and I read there is a really high chance of sightings, so with just a bit of luck, you will too.

Colca Canyon is high up, with the Cruz del Condor viewpoint at an altitude of 3,700 m (12,000 ft). You might want to stock up on some coca just in case you get signs of mountain sickness.

Colca Canyon will take up all day. Head to dinner and hit the sack.

 

 

Day 8: Cusco city center

Just me, hanging out on Cusco’s Plaza de Armas
 

Main sites visited on day 8: Inca Museum, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Cathedral, Calle Inca Roca, San Cristobal Church
Hotel recommendations:  Hilton Garden Inn
Further reading: 3-day itinerary Cusco
Dinner: Garden Grille

Get ready for Inca-overload! Flights to Cusco from Arequipa take an hour and cost around USD 100. Once you disembark your plane, you’ll be breathing heavier since you’re now in 3,400 m (11,000 ft).

If you come to Cusco directly from Lima, you’re almost certainly getting altitude sickness. If you took our advice and spent time in and around Arequipa first, you might get lucky and get altitude sickness a few days later once you head higher into the mountains.

Rent a car. You can again do that at Alkila Rent a Car. Alternatively, a taxi from Cusco airport to the city center is USD 25. You can use the Cabify app in Cusco as well.

Cusco is one of the very few cities in the Americas that I think warrant a two-day stay. In this case, it’s great because you might be feeling a little blah because of the altitude, so getting two days of “just” sightseeing in town will be just what your body needs to get back up to speed again.

Cusco highlights on Google Maps

Day 8 Morning: Inca Museum, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Cathedral

Inca Museum

First stop: the Inca Museum. Learn about everything you’re going to be seeing in the next few days. The Incas were a fascinating people and getting to know as much as you can about them will elevate your experiences at the ruins you’ll be visiting.             

Definitely opt for a guide since the museum isn’t really that great when it comes to signs in English. Our guide was fantastic and really made our visit worthwhile.

A very un-authentic statue in front of the Inca Museum and some very authentic receptacles from inside the museum  
 

Expect to spend at least 1.5 hours at the Inca Museum. Tickets cost USD 3.

Fun fact: Sadly, because the Incas did not have scripts, you will find very limited written information about this civilization. But from the architecture you can actually see it was really well developed.

Plaza de Armas and Cusco Cathedral

The Inca Museum is right by the Plaza de Armas, so spend some time there and at the massive Cusco Cathedral. It has three parts and includes a museum with hundreds of artifacts, sculptures, and paintings, the most famous of which is Marcos Zapata’s Last Supper where guinea pig is served as the main course.

You’ll need an hour to properly look around. Tickets cost USD 8.

If you want to and are interested in chocolate you can visit the Cusco Chocolate Museum. I visited it but it was mediocre.

By this point, you’ll have worked up an appetite. Luckily, Cusco has fantastic eateries. We stumbled into Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse by accident and had the best chicken of our lives.

Day 8 Afternoon: Calle Inca Roca and San Cristobal Church

These streets show the Inca’s amazing craftsmanship

Twelve angled stone

Walk through the side streets of Old Town. Don’t forget about Calle Hatunrumiyoc and Calle Inca Roca to check out the walls made of the Incas’ precisely cut stones. You really don’t need to do much, just walk and enjoy; it will only take a few minutes.

San Cristobal Church

Then climb up to the viewpoint at San Cristobal Church and ooh and aah over what is in front of you: the Plaza de Armas surrounded by the red rooftops of Cusco, bordered by the magnificent Andes in the background. Priceless.

It’s a short (15 minutes max) but steep walk from Plaza de Armas. Your ticket from Cusco Cathedral automatically gets you into the San Cristobal Church if you’re interested. It’s nothing that special, the views of Cusco are the real attraction here. For me, the surrounding landscape is only comparable with the Cape Town landscape.

The best views of Cusco: San Cristobal Viewpoint

Hotel for the night

Hilton Garden Inn Cusco
 

Another day, another Hilton? It sure was for us, and we can’t complain! The Hilton Garden Inn Cusco had super comfortable beds, wonderful staff and though it’s located a 10-minute walk to the Plaza de Armas, the bonus is that it is quiet. The spa is so good, that they even have a special acclimatization massage. Add one of our favorite restaurants in all of Peru, the Garden Grille, and you have one of the best hotels in Cusco.

 

Day 9: Cusco city center

Explore the cultures of Peru at the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art of Peru
 

Main sites visited on day 9: Museum of Pre-Columbian Art of Peru, Coca Museum, Qorikancha
Hotel recommendations:  Hilton Garden Inn
Further reading: Things to do in Cusco
Lunch and Breakfast: Organika

Today you get to see more of Cusco, learn more about the Incas, and visit another very Peru-specific museum.

Day 9 Morning: Museum of Pre-Colombian Art of Peru and Coca Museum

First, head over to the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art of Peru right by the Plaza de Armas. It’s part of the Museo Larco group (the Museo Larco that knocked our socks off in Lima), meaning it’s very modern and up to European museum standards.

This museum presents the art and cultures of central Peru from the Mochica civilization to the Incas. You’ll need about an hour to go through the ten rooms of the museum. Tickets cost USD 5.

A cup of coca tea, anyone?
 

You can also learn about another staple of the region: coca. Just remember not to buy everyone at home souvenirs from the Coca Museum, it’s illegal to take that stuff out of the country! It’s fascinating to learn about the plant that might just save you from altitude sickness on more than one occasion while you’re traveling in Peru. I was honestly expecting a bigger punch from this museum. It's quite short and rather shallow in information. It's okay to visit, but I’ve seen better.

Free admission.

For lunch, how about something healthy? Have you ever had flowers on a pizza? No? You can at Organika.    

Day 9 Afternoon: Qrikancha

Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Qorikancha

After lunch, head to Qoricancha. It was the most important temple in Cusco during the Inca Empire. However, once the Spaniards took over, they took it apart and built a church on the leftover base, which is what you’ll see there now. There’s also a museum on site.

The Iglesia is just a few minutes' walk and it's really well worth it. I liked that it’s a blend of Spanish colonial architecture and an Inca palace, Qorikancha. You can see the church built on the base of Inca stone. (They probably had better structural integrity than anything the Spaniards knew in those days.)

Qorikancha
 

You’ll need at least an hour on the site and in the museum. Qoricancha Museum is part of Cusco Tourist Ticket Circuit 2; you’ll pay s/15 (USD 4) at the site + s/1.30 for the bell tower. More about the Cusco Tourist Ticket in my Cusco 3-day itinerary.

Qoricancha is right in the center of Cusco, so you’re still walking distance to everywhere and you can spend the rest of the afternoon around Plaza de Armas.

 

Day 10: Cusco Inca sites

You can see the location of all of the Inca ruins on Google Maps
 

Main sites visited on day 10: Sacsayhuaman, Tambomachay, Qenco and Puka Pukara
Hotel recommendations:  Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Valle Sagrado:
Further reading: Things to do in Cusco

Today you’ll be taking a look at the Inca sites around the city. Take your car, because most of them are outside of town.

Day 10 Morning: Sacsayhuaman

The first site you’ll be visiting is Sacsayhuaman. It was an important fortified Inca complex, so it sits atop a steep hill, right above the San Cristobal viewpoint. It’s a massive site with not only Inca ruins but also great views of Sacred Valley and even Ausangate, the sacred mountain of the Incas. You will see much more of it on tomorrow's hike at Rainbow Mountain. Btw. until this day it remains the most memorable mountain for me.

As for Sacsayhuaman, the complex is massive and will take you at least 2–3 hours to visit with plenty of opportunities to take pictures. For me, it was probably the number one reason I was looking forward to visiting Cusco. I. In the end, I saw better things in Cusco, but it certainly was not a letdown.

Tickets are not sold separately. You need the Cusco Tourist Ticket Circuit 1 (USD 35) or 2 (USD 20). More about how and where to buy tickets in our Sacred Valley article. 

Plan your day so that you can have lunch after you see Sacsayhuaman, since after this, you’ll be heading out into the boonies.

Day 10 Afternoon: Tambomachay, Qenco, and Puka Pukara

Tambomachay
 

Tambomachay, Qenco, and Puka Pukara are next on your Inca itinerary for the day. They are all to the north of town. Qenco is right on the outskirts of Cusco while Tambomachay and Puka Pukara are a few kilometers outside of town, about 10 minutes by car.   

A water worship center, a mummification area, and an entry checkpoint into Cusco are what you’ll be seeing. You’ll probably be content with 30 minutes at each site.

They’re all conveniently on Cusco Tourist Ticket Circuit 2 which is only valid for one day, so you have no choice but to group them together during one outing. 

For more information about all of these Inca sites, see our article titled The 10 Things to Do In Cusco That Are Actually Worth It.

 

 

After you’ve seen all of the Incan sites around Cusco you can head toward your Sacred Valley hotel so you can start fresh tomorrow morning. It will take you between 1–2 hours of driving depending on the location of the hotel. Good hotels of Western standards are quite sparse in the Sacred Valley, so I really recommend that you follow my tips.

 

Day 11: Rainbow Mountain

Not as colorful as on Instagram, but still beautiful
 

Main sites visited on day 12: Rainbow Mountain or Vinicunca
Hotel recommendations:  Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Valle Sagrado
Further reading:  We wrote the full guide for visiting Rainbow Mountain

Get ready to drive for way too long and walk in way too thin air. Today you’ll get an answer to the burning question: Have I acclimatized enough?! The whole buildup of the previous days in Cusco and the ruins are prepared exactly to the best acclimatization standard for this hike. Aaaand it was not enough for me!

Located at an altitude of 5,200 m (17,000 ft), it’ll be a miracle if you aren’t grabbing for several cups of coca tea in hopes of curing your mountain sickness.

Pro tip: Coca tea that all the locals sell on the way up really helps. Like for 10 minutes and probably a placebo, but it really works. And it's very cheap so use that option.

There are a few different routes you can take to see Rainbow Mountain aka Vinicunca (or the alternative Palccoyo).

 

 

The standard route to Rainbow Mountain is called the Cusipata Trail. You start hiking at 4,600 m (15,000 ft) and continue for 3 km (1.8 miles) with a total elevation gain of about 400 m (1,300 ft), and then back the same way. So, it’s not that long, but it’ll take you 2 hours to get up there and another 1.5 hours back down because you will be taking breathing breaks every 20 m (65 ft). The cost is USD 11.

The trek to Palccoyo is easy enough with the lower altitude and almost flat terrain  
 

The shorter Palccoyo Route is only 2 km (1.2 miles) long and takes you to a different rainbow mountain (several, actually) than the popular Rainbow Mountain. It's an easy hike of about 40 minutes. The cost is USD 3.

No matter which starting point you decide on, you’re looking at a 3–4-hour drive from Sacred Valley one way, so get up bright and early. It’s 100 km (62 miles), and at least half of that will be spent on dirt roads.

I would not go on a guided tour as you won't need it. There is a parking lot located at about 4,800 m (15,700 ft) above sea level which you will climb to from 3,300 m (10,800 ft) quite quickly. So, I recommend doing a few rest stops on the way up for safety. But other than that, you are ready to go; unless you need a ride you don’t need a tour.

When you park the car, you are looking at a roughly 45-minute straightforward hike with an ascent of about 300–400 m (980–1,300 ft) depending on where you finish your hike. At the top you will take a few pictures of a not-so-rainbow mountain and then slowly head back, dying on your way down.

Pro tip: But Jan, is that really that bad? Oh yes. You can't imagine. It's like dying while walking. So really, acclimatize, acclimatize, as much as you can. And don’t eat the meat at the top! I did and I still wonder how I could’ve been so stupid, since it rushes the blood into your stomach, so your already sorry state gets significantly worse.

Rainbow Mountain is actually okay, but the mountains around are breathtaking especially if you see Ausangate. I was lucky enough to have a cloudless sky to see this glacier's beauty.

After you finish one of the best and worst days of your life you can enjoy swimming in the hotel pool and get some well-deserved dinner if your stomach can take it. Mine could not.

 

Day 12: Sacred Valley

Just spectacular!
 

Main sites visited on day 12: Moray and Maras, Ollantaytambo, Pisac, Chinchero
Hotel recommendations:  Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Valle Sagrado:
Further reading:  Top things to do in Sacred Valley, Things to know before you visit Ollantaytambo, Guide to Moray and Maras, Best Ruins in Peru
Lunch or dinner: See here for the location of El Maqt’a

You can see the entire route of today's roadtrip here on Google Maps
 

You’ll be driving through the heart of the Inca Empire today—Sacred Valley. It’ll be a whole lot of Inca ruins, but maybe even more exciting is the scenery. Peru’s Andes Mountains are awe-inspiring, and you’ll be awe-ing at every stop you make!

All the places you’ll want to hit—Chinchero, Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo, and Pisac—are conveniently part of the Cusco Tourist Ticket Circuit 3, except for Maras. Get your Maras ticket separately at the entrance.

Pro tip: I’ll be completely honest. This was my absolutely favorite day in Peru. I’m going to repeat this exact itinerary over and over again. The sites are so unique, the views are so stunning, and the places are so different, it's just incomparable to anywhere else in the world.

The whole day is prepared in a manner that you will ascent in altitude so you have time to acclimatize. You will start at Ollaytantambo at about 2,800 m (9,200 ft) and end up in Maray and Moras which are 3,800 m (12,400 ft).

Day 12 Morning: Ollantaytambo and Pisac

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo

Start your day at Ollaytantambo as it is conveniently located at one end of Sacred Valley. Ollantaytambo is your picture-perfect Incan ruins. They are in the namesake town where you can park and walk up the ruins. They are at about 2,800 m (9,200 ft) so I breathed heavily from the start but it was bearable. These ruins are one of the best preserved and biggest in all of Peru, unlike Machu Picchu for example.

The whole visit will take you up to 1 hour and then if you are super interested in the town, you can walk around. It is pretty, but nothing mind-blowing... if you don’t count the absolutely stunning mountains around you!

Pisac

Pisac
 

First, drive 40 km (25 miles) to Pisac. It’s not far, but you’ll need an hour for the trip. This isn’t a highway! Once there, you might overlook the Inca ruins and just stare at the views. But the ruins of the fortress are vast, so they’ll require at least an hour or two of your attention. Bear in mind that Pisac is slightly higher than Ollaytantambo nestled at about 3,400 m (11,100 ft).

Pisac is my absolute favorite Incan ruin in all of South America. The views are just indescribably beautiful and a big addition is the level of preservation of the actual site. If you choose only one Incan site, choose Pisac or Machu Picchu.

Fun Fact: Pisac is the other end of the fortress protection system of Sacred Valley which also protected access toward the capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco.

I especially liked the picture-perfect terraces and the Sun Temple with the massive mountains as the photo backdrop. I mean, it's obvious that you would want your fortress to be built in such a beautiful place. Would you build yours in a swamp? I guess not.

Chinchero

Next, you’ll head to Chinchero, a picturesque town where the locals still dress in traditional clothing. If you can come here on a Sunday, you’ll experience a very nice market, not as touristy as most others. The drive between Pisac and Chinchero is 1.5 hours and about 75 km (45 mi). Again, Chinchero kind of reminded me of Qorikancha in the sense that it is a Spanish colonial church built over an Incan settlement. So, you basically have a church nestled on Incan rocks. It's cool and sad mixed together.

El Maqt’a Restaurant
 

Time for lunch! And we have a secret gem for you: Make sure to stop by the very local and very cute restaurant called El Maqt’a. It’s a gem we found on the road between Chinchero and Urubamba.  See here for the location of El Maqt’a and don’t expect them to have a website, but do expect the pink corn beer, chicha. More details in our Best Restaurants in Peru article.

Day 12 Afternoon: Moray and Maras

Lookin’ good at the Maras salt pools

Moray

Moray experimental lab
 

Continue 15 minutes from the restaurant to Moray, where the Incas experimented with growing different crops, and the circular sunken terraces are a very cool leftover of that agricultural laboratory.

You’ll be using your Cusco Tourist Ticket for Moray. You will spend up to an hour at the site. Jeez, I loved Moray; it's such an interesting site! I can't remember any other archeology site as clever as this one. It’s a laboratory 3,800 m (12,400 ft) above sea level so Incan “chemists” could try out their gene-mixing and growing new crops and trying to see what works and what does not. How cool is that?

You can park very comfortably at a nearby parking lot with plenty of available parking spaces.

Maras

Twenty minutes further you’ll be stopping at Maras, which is a whole side of a mountain filled with thousands of salt evaporation pools. This is the spot where you’ll be buying a separate ticket at the entrance for USD 3 since it’s not included in the Cusco Tourist Ticket. Allow 30 minutes for your visit.

Again, for me, this was an out-of-this-world experience. It's so different from nearby Moray and yet equally intriguing.

Fun fact: I haven’t seen anything like Maras ever before. The salt pools are created thanks to the super saline river flowing out of the mountain. And me being very high on a geek level, I just loved seeing the source of the river and how it left all those salt crystals right out in the mountain.

 

 

Day 13: Transfer to Aguas Calientes and first day at Machu Picchu

Train trip with a wonderful view
 

Today you’ll be taking the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (otherwise known as Machu Picchu Pueblo). In the afternoon, you’ll visit the one and only Machu Picchu.

Day 13 Morning: Getting to Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes views
 

The first part of your day is going to be spent getting to Aguas Calientes, otherwise known as Machu Picchu Pueblo. You’ll want to go relatively early in the morning because you have a big day ahead of you—Machu Picchu!

The train trip from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes takes 1.5 hours, costs USD 120 one way, and takes you through more stunning scenery, as you’ve probably gotten used to in Sacred Valley by now. There are two train companies to choose from: Peru Rail and Inca Rail.

You’ll want to buy your train tickets directly from the company websites right at the time you buy your Machu Picchu tickets, which should be up to 6 months before your visit. For instructions on how and when to buy tickets, read our All You Need to Know for Visiting Machu Picchu article.

Once in Aguas Calientes, head over to the bus ticket office, Consettur, to get your tickets for the bus. Those cost USD 24 return.

Day 13 Afternoon: Your first visit to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is definitely worth it!
 

The bus tickets to Machu Picchu aren’t time-stamped, so you’ll need to line up and hope to get on a bus at the time you want. Don’t worry though, because unless you want to be the first one there (in which case, have fun getting in line at 4 am!), there usually isn’t much of a wait.  The bus trip up to the actual Inca city takes 20 minutes.

Because of how the Machu Picchu ticketing system works, you can choose a ticket to just Machu Picchu, or to Machu Picchu and a hike. We think it’s worth doing both because if you buy the combination ticket, you can’t go on the best route through Machu Picchu city. And that kinda sucks.

For this reason, I recommend buying two separate tickets: one with a hike, one without, and see Machu Picchu on two separate visits.

This afternoon, you’ll be seeing Machu Picchu city on the comprehensive circuit 1. It has a set time limit of 4 hours per visit and costs USD 40.

Our All You Need to Know for Visiting Machu Picchu article explains everything from costs and tickets to getting there and if and how to get a guide. You can also find a map showing all the routes. In a separate article, The Best Time to Visit Macchu Picchu, we discuss the rainy season vs. the dry season and why we think seeing the sunrise at Machu Picchu is overrated.

 

 

Hotel in Machu Picchu

While there are several fantastic hotels to choose from in Aguas Calientes itself, consider staying at the wonderful Sanctuary Lodge, A Belmond Hotel, which is up on the actual mountain near Machu Picchu itself. Since you’ll be returning to Machu Picchu tomorrow morning, it saves you a couple of bus trips up and down the mountain.

You can spend the evening at the fantastic restaurant or take a little wander around the manicured grounds with ponds and hummingbirds. The best part is that you get direct views of Huayna Picchu, which is the mountain you’ll be hiking in the morning, right after you wake up in your silk bedding. Bliss!

 

Day 14: Another Machu Picchu hike!

The view from Huayna Picchu with Machu Picchu Mountain in the background  
 

This is your second day at Machu Picchu. We did the Huayna Picchu combination, and it was fantastic. Not too strenuous or long but is recommended as the most spectacular of all the hike options. 

Day 14 Morning: Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu combination

No matter which hike you choose, the combination tickets are only available for the mornings. “Our” Huayna Picchu hike and city tickets cost USD 53 per person. They let you explore for up to 6 hours, including one of the lesser routes within the city.

Getting up to Huayna Picchu is an adventure, with narrow pathways and super steep stairs that’ll make you climb them on all fours. Whatever you do, don’t look down! Until you get to the top, that is.

There are no facilities at Machu Picchu, so you’ll need to wait with your lunch until you get your butt over to a restaurant in town again.

I’ll never forget this Machu Picchu experience

Day 14 Afternoon: Getting back to Cusco from Machu Picchu

Once you get back down to Aguas Calientes, spend an hour or four at one of our favorite restaurants in Peru, Chullos. We could’ve (and literally almost did) spent the entire afternoon on their balcony overlooking the Urubamba River. If the views and divine food aren’t enough to persuade you, know that they serve their own beer and it’s fantastic!

You’ll need to head back to Cusco in the afternoon by spending 1.5 hours on the train back to Ollantaytambo and then driving 60 km (37 miles) to Cusco.

Hotel in Cusco for the night

You’re back in Cusco and you’ll be staying for 2 nights. You can either choose one of the hotels that we recommended for your first stop there, the Palacio del Inka, A Luxury Collection Hotel.

 

Day 15: Travel to Lima

Back in Lima!
 

Today you’ll need to get on a flight to Lima. Once in Lima, do not rent a car, instead opting for taxis. Remember, driving in Lima is a nightmare.

Day 15 Morning: Flight from Cusco to Lima

Spend a leisurely morning sleeping in, having a grand breakfast, and then getting to the Cusco airport for your flight to Lima. There are many departures throughout the day and tickets cost around USD 100. You’ll be in Lima in no time... if you consider 1.5 hours of no time.

Day 15 Afternoon: Dinner and a walk in Lima

Once in the city, you’ll probably only have enough energy left for a nice dinner and cocktails. 

You can take one last look at the sunset at the Miraflores boardwalk, called the Malecón, which takes you to the cliffs over the ocean. After sunset, head inland to one of the top bars in Miraflores called Open Tapas Bar, and reminisce about your trip, lamenting about how you should’ve stayed longer.

Because you will wish you had more time. There is so much more to see and do in Peru. Or, since you’re still planning your trip, check out our 4-week itinerary for Peru. Amazon Jungle, anyone? More hikes? Straw islands on Lake Titicaca?

 

 

And then... There’s nothing left to say, you’ll need to come back to Peru another day! Hasta luego! Plan one last night in Lima to prevent any stress about missing your flight home. Not a good idea to plan two flights in one day!

 

Hotel in Lima for the night

Both hotels we stayed at in Lima, the Miraflores Hilton Hotel. You won’t be disappointed. The staff were exceptionally pleasant, and we had no complaints whatsoever.

 

 

Extra resources

We’ve put together a ton of information about visiting Peru. Not only destination guides, but also travel tips and tricks that we’ve learned the only way you can—by having traveled to Peru. Read these before you go so you can enjoy your vacation to the fullest:

• All You Need to Know Before Traveling to Peru
• Best Places in Peru
• Driving in Peru
• Best Restaurants in Peru
• What to Eat and Drink in Peru
• Best Hotels in Peru
• Best Ruins in Peru
• Christmas and New Year’s in Peru

 

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